1994 Graham's Vintage Port

[John Sel]

Deep dark red, nearly to the rim, where there is slight paleness and attenuation. At 7 hours: Ripe, rich and woodily spicy on the nose -very persistent. Sweet, pure fruit on the palate with moderate acidity and medium weight. Noticeably dry and tannic on the finish. Next day: Vanilla and licorice show on the nose with a touch of menthol. The sweetness is the primary impression on the palate which now shows a bit more of a raisiny character. This does not strike me as a massive wine, rather there is a fluidity to the wine which seems almost to dance across the palate. Can certainly be enjoyed now for its youthful charm, but with the balance to age gracefully. At this stage, I find myself slightly less impressed in this vintage by the Graham than by the recently tasted Dow and Warre. For me, the Graham just seems to lack a bit of heart, though it's possible I'm misreading its potential. 93+ points.