2003 Jose Maria da Fonseca & van Zeller Vintage Port

[Todd Pettinger]

Jose Maria da Fonseca & van Zeller Vintage Port - 2003
This bottle is special to me as a twin of this was the very first bottle of true VP that I ever bought. Didn’t have the guts to open it up, but I admit to wanting to try it, to see if it was worth picking up a case when the price gets discounted (hopefully after Christmas.) I noticed that this Port has not moved a single bottle (that I have noticed) since I bought my first bottle, so I picked one up for sampling. At $50Cdn, it was a good price, and it is not that bad to lose one as an accident.

Intense dark red, almost black, colour. Nose is dominated by dark black cherries, intense grapes and a side helping of licorice with just a touch of alcohol. Swirling produces rich, dark tears that stain the glass almost immediately. A medium sweet palate is dominated by intense cherries and blackberries. Tongue-coating tannins with a decent amount of grip. Some mouth-pucker, but pleasant. Not as much acidity at this stage as I would have suspected, but this is one intense Port.

Fabulous, sweet Port that I enjoyed immensely. Some dark chocolate flavours in the mid-palate to go along with the dark cherries. Very strong, intense flavours and I am enjoying this immensely. It reminds me of the Noval 2003 VP I had earlier this year. Same initial intensity, dark, concentrated colours and perhaps even flavours. (And does this surprise, seeing as how Cristian van Zeller had a major input into the production of this Port, he who used to own Noval?)

This port is a steal at $50, and I will be picking up a case at least, and a lot more if it goes on sale some time in the new future. Reminiscent of the Graham’s, sweet style with less acidity. Some tannins lead me to believe that although it is good right now, at such a young age, it will only improve with a lot more years in the bottle. 95 pts.

Todd