30 Year Old Tawny Port by S. Leonardo -- (Quinta do Mourão)

[Glenn E.]

NV S. Leonardo 30-yr old Tawny
bottled in 2008

Tasted blind 12/8/2008 at Roy's house

The very first thing I said upon smelling this in the glass was "this smells familiar." Roy thought that was unlikely, though, since it is only available in Portugal and the only Port I could remember having in Portugal that wouldn't also be available in the US was a 1963 Romariz Colheita. I was wrong, but more on that later. **

The color is very tan, almost brown. Any red left is an afterthought, though there is a slightly orange tint to the tan/brown. It just looks old, and it looks a bit like Madeira. Light reflections in/through the glass do show a nice red tone, but that could be the bright red tablecloth exerting its holiday influence.

The nose is very pleasant and mild. At first there is some Christmas spice and possibly some very faint gingerbread. Later that morphs more toward cedar or some other aromatic wood. There is also a faint hint of oak, but it is deeply buried in the spices and mellow dried fruits.

In the mouth it is smooth and creamy. It lacks the tartness or sourness that most 20-yr olds still have. There's no sharp edge to it, either, like most 10-yr olds have. There is a hard to identify impression of cake, which at first seems like shortbread but over time changes every so slightly to be shortcake. Roy suggests oatmeal raisin cookie, and it's spot on but in pieces. The oatmeal cookie - with some light cinnamon and other spices - wafts through your mouth first, and is then followed by raisins and nuts that I can't completely define. Almonds, possibly.

The finish seems short, but it's not getting much of a chance to develop because the Port is so tasty.

As the glass empties a pronounced aroma of spice develops.

Knowing only that it was a tawny of some sort, I guessed tawny with an indication of age over colheita because it just felt too well-rounded and complex to be from a single vintage. My normal quaffer is a 20-yr old, and this felt significantly older (in no small part due to the color), so I went with a 40-yr old. The only 40-yr old Tawny that I've had is the Noval, and I could tell that it wasn't that, so I couldn't guess a shipper. As already noted, it was a 30-yr old S. Leonardo.

** Once Roy revealed the bottle I recognized it. As it turns out, I have had S. Leonardo Port before - at Vinologia! During one of my family's many stops at AVEPOD, Maria Theresa recommended that I try S. Leonardo at Vinologia that evening. So when I ordered a flight I asked specifically that they include a S. Leonardo, and they included the 10-yr old. As I recall, the 10-yr old was equally as impressive! (But it was overshadowed by the 1952 Dalva Golden White Colheita that I had in the same flight.)

[Roy Hersh]

A truly fine treat and I really like this 30 as much as the Vista Alegre that always captures my admiration. I was glad to be able to share this one.

[Andy Velebil]

Glenn,
Glad you got to try this Port. It really is a remarkable one and a shame that none is exported out of Portugal.

Roy,
Pairing this side-by-side with the Vista Alegre to see who would come out on top would be quite fun to do. Both are excellant 30 Year Tawny's and at the top of their class.

[David Aho]

Hej!!!

It was a long time since my last comment but I am back. Better later then never...

Andy, I can tell you that S.Leonardo Ports are export to Sweden and to our neighbours in Finland. Actually I was with the producer 1 month ago in a tasting in Stockholm in a wine club. Beautiful Ports all of them and this 30 YO is outstanding!!! I might be wrong but as far as I recall when I talked with the producer he said that he is exPORTing (had exportPORT) to US.

Roy, I hope you'll accept Andy's challenge.

//David Aho

[Andy Velebil]

David,
Welcome back! Glad to hear that, this is a really small producer so I am glad to find out it is getting some outside exposure.

[David Aho]

Thanks Andy.
I am lucky to have the S. Leonardo Tawnies here in Sweden and the prices are not high at all:
http://www.systembolaget.se/Applikation ... DD6C213A49}

Also also the Vista Alegre: http://www.systembolaget.se/Applikation ... +storlekar::::::

Andy, If Roy don't accept your challenge of pairing S. Leonardo againt Vista Alegre I might do it, but only in January.

[Andy Velebil]

David,
Please do and report back how they did side by side...that would be a very nice read.

[David Aho]

Andy,

I'll pair them after X-tmas and I'll come back to you.

[Otto Nieminen]

Andy, I can tell you that S.Leonardo Ports are export to Sweden and to our neighbours in Finland.

That's kind of true, but sadly they are only for restaurant sales in Finland, not in our Monopoly. But I know the Finnish importer so I have had the opportunity to taste through the range and I was very impressed by all of them. I think it was this producer who made a stunning 40yo as well (I must try to find my note, as I might remember the producer for the 40yo wrong).

BTW, from your last name I would have thought you were Finnish, David?

[David Aho]

Otto, I get the name after married... my wife is half Swedish/Finnish.

[Roy Hersh]

I'd be happy to try the two side-by-side but unfortunately my last bottles of each were consumed in the pursuit of tasting notes. More than likely I'll have to wait until May to try them both again while in Portugal. Picking a favorite between these two would be fun.

[David Aho]

Roy, I'll pair them in January but it would be nice if you could do the same in May.
I just read your TN about S. Leonardo Tanwy 30 YO and I am looking forward to tast it again.

[goncalo devesas]

From all the 30y that I´ve tasted, my favourite is 30 Year Old Tawny Port by S. Leonardo

[Glenn E.]

Goncalo, you probably do not remember my visit, but you took care of my wife and I while we were at Vinologia. When I mentioned that I wanted to try a San Leonardo, you even asked if we'd been talking to Maria Teresa.

We had a wonderful time and I look forward to visiting again!

[goncalo devesas]

Hope to see you soon, Glenn,

Best regards.

Gonçalo

[Eric Menchen]

From all the 30y that I´ve tasted, my favourite is 30 Year Old Tawny Port by S. Leonardo

I haven't tasted many 30 year old tawnies, but the S. Leonardo is my favorite, and most excellent. Had it at Vinologia

[Roy Hersh]

Glenn,

I am still waiting for your TN on the bottle of 30 year old Niepoort we had last Tuesday night. Although dead tired when I arrived home ... actually getting a 10 minute "final wind" ... I wrote down my impression of that 30 year old, as it deserved its place in my notebood and dbase at some point.

I hope you'll write up your note too!