Muscat and Sauternes

[Mike Kerr]

Not sure if this is the appropriate forum, but I've seen a lot of mention on various threads about Muscat/Muscatel and Sauternes wines, which I gather are sweet. For the uninitiated who would like to learn more about these, can someone describe these wines in general, and what some decent entry-level QPRs are out there? I've seen mention of some French, some Portugese, Takaji, some of which I can find right next to the Port section in "Dessert Wines" at the local Total Wine, but I honestly don't know what I'm looking for.

Any would be appreciated!

Mike.

[Gary Banker]

Mike,

If you can, find an excellent small reference book "Fortified & Sweet Wines" by Radford and Brook. There are a lot of different wines available. There are red and white and fortified and unfortified. Most of the good ones are not cheap. Sweetness levels range from mild to extreme. You need to try them to see what you like.

[Eric Ifune]

Several ways to make sweet wines. Fortification to stop fermentation as for Ports and Madeira is one. Setubal is a muscat based example from Portugal. Quady in California also does this. Using grapes affected by Botytis (nobel rot) is another. Here the fungus dehydrates the grapes and also increase acidity and adds some unique flavors. Sauterne, German Beeren and Trockenbeerenauslese, Alsace SGN, Tokaji are examples here. There are a few muscat based Tokaji around. Grapes can be dried prior to pressing as well for a Passito style. Used a lot in Italy and a few other places. Northern Italy has many examples of Passito muscat. Muscat is naturally very sweet and oftimes is made sweet by stopping fermentation by refridgeration. Moscato di Alba is an example. These should be stored refrigerated as well, otherwise the fermentation can begin again and the corks shot out of the bottle during storage!

[Moses Botbol]

The price for Grand Cru Sauternes is up there for sure. One brand I feel offers great QPR is Chateau D'arche. Half bottles are around $20 and it's Grand Cru level which is really needed for Sauternes. Sauternes should really needs to be at the Grand Cru level for the first try. Jurançon is good one to look for if you want deals. Jurançon is made in the same manner as Sauternes, but from a lesser known area of France.

These sweet whites seems like they are forgotten wines to many wine drinkers. Everyone loves them, but not so many are buying them regularly. Too bad for them.

[Michael Hann]

Classic Sauternes is made in the Bordeaux wine region of France from white wine grapes -- principally with the Semillon grape but also with an admixture of Sauvignon Blanc grapes (90% Semilion/10% Sauvignon Blanc would not be an unusual blend, I would guess). An essential factor in the production of Sauternes is the transformation of the grapes by Botrytis cinerea, a fungus which is encouraged by humid vineyard conditions -- morning fog -- which are endemic to the Sauternes vineyard in the fall. The Botrytis cinerea causes the grapes to lose their water content -- shrivelling ultimately -- while retaining (and hence concentrating) their acidity, sweetness, and other flavor factors. Botrytis cinerea also plays a role in production of dessert wines in other regions, including Germany and Hungary. The effects of Botrytis cinerea are sometimes called noble rot, pourriture noble, edelfaule.

The French have classified the Sauternes chateau, much like they have classified the red wine chateau, into different classes. The top class is Chateau d'Yquem (something like 'hors de crus classee' -- so outstanding as to be outside and above the standard classifications). The first class includes Chateau Suiduiraut, Chateau La Tour Blanche, Chateau Rieussec, Chateau Climens, Chateau Coutet, and no doubt others. These wines are naturally fermented to an alcohol level of 14% and are bottled with substantial residual sweetness remaining. I'm not sure what makes the fermentation stop, as I'm guessing at 14% alcohol and sugar remaining, the yeasts could theoretically continue to ferment. These wines can age and improve for many years and take on a deep golden color with age. Most in the first class can be drunk and show well after 8 years.

A good Sauternes should have a fine balance of acidity, sweetness, and body. They often have a very fine nose that is haunting and beautiful, including mysterious notes contributed by the Botrytis cinerea. They are quite rich, and most people can't drink too much at a time. Sauternes is supposed to be served very cold, I understand. I like to drink it with sweet desserts such as New York style cheese cake or even better good creme brulee. I understand that some recommend matching Sauternes with Roquefort cheese or pate de foie gras, but I have not tested this match.

These wines are not cheap. Bottles of the first class of Sauternes may cost about $60/bottle to $100/bottle for a good current vintage, such as 2005. Chateau d'Yquem costs considerably more, perhaps in the range of $250/bottle. Of course, it is worth noting that the special conditions involved in making Sauternes involve low yields as a result of the Botrytis cinerea.

[Eric Menchen]

These wines are naturally fermented to an alcohol level of 14% and are bottled with substantial residual sweetness remaining. I'm not sure what makes the fermentation stop, as I'm guessing at 14% alcohol and sugar remaining, the yeasts could theoretically continue to ferment.

14% is a mid-range limit for wine yeast. Plenty of strains will give out then. Some will go a few points higher, and Champagne yeast generally has the highest tolerance around 17-18%. Also, to get the most of the yeast you really need to keep them happy.