TN: 1987 Royal Oporto Vintage Port

[Al B.]

Decant: 1½ hours - What a pleasant surprise! A mid-red colour, light in colour and with a pale orange rim. A colour which reminds me very much of the mature '63s. A very developed nose, very mature with sweet red licorice and leather over just a hint of bottle stink. In the mouth this is fully mature - the most advanced of any of the 1987 vintage ports I have tasted - but is held together by a strong acidic core. The strength of this acidity is overwhelming with only 1½ hours in the decanter and it may integrate better with a little more time. The flavours in the mouth are of soft red fruits, cooked in light syrup until they have fallen apart and integrated together. There is a very pleasant meaty tone. Up until this point, this port has been perfectly acceptable, if a little simple and one-dimensional and spoiled by the streak of acidity, but when you swallow the wine the aftertaste is fantastic. It is huge, dominating and lasts for ages - but not just one aftertaste, there are three or four entwined together and as one fades out the next comes into sharp focus. Quite extraordinary. Not a great wine, but one to hunt out and try for the aftertaste alone. 88 points