Champalimaud

Thomas McColl · Post by **Thomas McColl** » Sat Jun 10, 2006 11:24 am

Has anyone tried the Champalimaud '89? I had never heard of Champalimaud port until I came across it in a mixed lot. I see from Google that a man of that name was for decades the biggest tycoon in Portugal.

Thomas

Al B. · Post by **Al B.** » Sat Jun 10, 2006 2:35 pm

According to Richard Mayson, the Champalimaud 1989 is made from grapes from the Baixa Corgo - which the IVDP classifies as lower grade vineyards compared to other parts of the Douro.

Mayson doesn't talk about the 1989, but he does say that Champalimaud have only declared three vintages (1982, 1989 and 1995) and goes on to say that the 1995 is made in a very dry style, is filtered before bottling and is intended to be drunk young.

I'm interested to see what you think when you try it.

Alex

Post by **Roy Hersh** » Sat Jun 10, 2006 3:44 pm

Thomas,

I am not sure without looking, which Champalimaud VP I have had. I do not go out of my way to review their wines. The owner is controversial to say the least but is known for making good Ports and decent table wines. His latest move was to be the first Portuguese producer to NOT use cork (Portugal produces 80% of what is used in the world's wine bottles) in some of his table wines. Although an "unpatriotic" move, at least in the minds of others in the Port industry (and the majority of those in the wine industry throughout Portugal) what really irked his fellow winemakers in Portugal was his condescending remarks that were very publically stated. It really boiled down to him saving 25 cents per bottle and had far more to do with the pricing than the quality of the corks. His verbal assault on the cork industry did not go over well in Portugal and was quite the fiasco for a couple of weeks over there. Regardless of the politics, his wines are not often found in the USA as their distribution is quite limited.

Thomas McColl · Post by **Thomas McColl** » Sun Jun 11, 2006 12:14 am

That is all very interesting. I read that Champalimaud's ports have slightly less alcohol than other ports, which sounded like a good thing. Did not know about their being filtered. Well I hope it is OK; 12 halves should be enough to form an opinion. Of course if it is not OK, it will be a case for making a virtue out of a necessity..

Thomas

Tom Archer · Post by **Tom Archer** » Sun Jun 11, 2006 2:53 am

I've never met this guy, but nor have I ever met anyone with a good word to say about him either.

The history of the world is littered with remarkable individuals whose genius went unrecognised in their lifetimes.

But here we have an individual who seems to thrive on publicity stunts and is not averse to using expletives when talking about the competition. His innovations do not amount to rocket science.

In an industry where dignity and timeless stability is so important, he seems to take a delight in rocking the boat.

Champalimaud and Q. Cotto ports are not on my shopping list.

Tom

Rui · Post by **Rui** » Sun Jun 11, 2006 10:21 am

Roy Hersh wrote:[...]His latest move was to be the first Portuguese producer to NOT use cork[...]

Roy,

I don't think he has not been the first to do that, and one of the reasons why this move of his has been so exposed in the press is perhaps because he is a controversial figure in the first place.

Quinta do Castelinho, which I believe also produces Porto, uses synthetic corks in a DOC red wine, and Castello D'Alba is a white wine that is also sealed with a synthetic cork. This has been the case for several years, I don't know how many exactly. These are two examples I know of, there may be more.

Thomas McColl · Post by **Thomas McColl** » Sun Jun 11, 2006 12:02 pm

'Today a cork is more expensive than a liter of wine. We have become cork salesmen instead of wine sellers,' Champalimaud told Reuters.

If he is right, the port was horribly overpriced.

Ronald Wortel · Post by **Ronald Wortel** » Sun Jun 11, 2006 3:06 pm

Thomas, he was talking about lower range table wines, not vintage port.

The table wines of Champalimaud (reds labeled Quinta do Cotto and whites Quinta do Teixeiro) are of good quality. The Quinta do Cotto Grande Escolha was one of the first really good estate wines from the Douro. I drank the 1987 not too long ago and it was delicious.

The company has a different (and controversial) approach to vintage port than most others. First: they always use their best grapes for the Grande Escolha wine, which explains why there are so few VP declarations, and only in years that are not classic ('82, '89, '95 and '01 have been made so far). Second: as stated above, the ports are made in a different style; drier than most, with a relative low alcohol level and approachable when young. According to Champalimaud the ports are well capable of ageing, most critics have a different opinion.

I've tasted only the '89 (about three years ago) and '01 (quite recently). IMO, the '89 was still pleasurable, but going downhill. I would perhaps buy one bottle to see how it is, but certainly not 12. The '01 was a very good port, and indeed more approachable at this young age than most. Because of its drier style it is a very gastronomic wine. I wouldn't mind at all to have some in the cellar to try in the coming years. I wouldn't let it age for 20 years though.

Thomas McColl · Post by **Thomas McColl** » Mon Jun 12, 2006 4:01 am

Thanks for the info Ronnie. There are worse things than having half bottles that need to be drunk. The Champalimaud was part of a real rag-and-bone mixed lot, 12 bottles and 21 halves. Should be interesting.

Thomas

Robin L. · Post by **Robin L.** » Fri Jun 23, 2006 1:35 pm

Everything I ever read in my life was quite negative about Champalimaud-do Cotto except that Vintage 2003 could emerge from the weakest ones. Distribution is very confidential in Eastern Canada and Fred and Gilles could probably testify too. Never experienced a bottle but very interested about gossips from Mr. Hersh!!!

Post by **Andy Velebil** » Fri Jun 23, 2006 1:55 pm

Thomas,

Here is their web site. It lists all the different distributors by country.

http://www.quinta-do-cotto.pt/

Thomas McColl · Post by **Thomas McColl** » Sun Jun 25, 2006 12:48 am

Hi Andy,

There is an article http://www.wsws.org/articles/2004/may20 ... -m27.shtml about the Champalimaud's economic and political influence. Possibly not objective, but a good synopsis of politics in 20th cent. Portugal.

Regards,
Thomas

Post by **Andy Velebil** » Sun Jun 25, 2006 5:11 am

Thomas,

Interesting reading, Thanks

Steven Kooij · Post by **Steven Kooij** » Sun Jun 25, 2006 8:33 am

I could be wrong, but the wsws-article has nothing to do with either Qta. d. Côtto nor with Miguel Champalimaud.

Ronald Wortel · Post by **Ronald Wortel** » Sun Jun 25, 2006 8:44 am

Steven Kooij wrote:I could be wrong, but the wsws-article has nothing to do with either Qta. d. Côtto nor with Miguel Champalimaud.

That was my reaction as well when I read it. I did a small search on the family on internet, and the Champalimauds seem to be fairly widespread in Portugal. Although it is possible (probably even likely) that there is some sort of family connection, relating this article to the wine house is like holding the Dutch royal family responsible for Prince Charles' behaviour.

Thomas McColl · Post by **Thomas McColl** » Mon Jun 26, 2006 7:27 am

No, nothing to do with Quinta d. Cotto, or M. Champalimaud either, about whom I have no opinion.

Perhaps it should have been posted somewhere else.

I thought it was a useful synopsis of recent Portuguese history, illustrated by the changing fortunes of another Champalimaud.

Thomas

Nevski · Post by **Nevski** » Mon Jun 26, 2006 7:50 am

Just noticed that Champalimaud '01 VP has been added in our Alko's list! Of course I must taste it ASAP!