TN: 1922 D'Oliveiras Madeira Boal

[Jay Hack]

1922 D'Oliveiras Madeira Boal - Portugal, Madeira (6/2/2007)

After sorting through recommendations as to how to prepare from Roy Hersh, Francois Audouze, Francois Mauss and Louis D'Oliveira directly from the winery, we settled on a decant two hours prior to drinking. In retrospect, I think those who suggested longer decaqnts were probably right - the alcohol level was a bot too high and more time to blow off might have been nbetter.

Aroma - The sommelier poured 13 glasses in a room next to the private room in the basement of Bottega del Vino. The aroma was so strong that I could easily smell the intense sweet nutty nose in the next room within 30 seconds after he started pouring. I am not a Madeira expert - far from it having had maybe one good glass of madeira in my life, so I can't give you comments on a relative basis, but the aroma was clearly on of the mroe intense wine experience I have ever had. I agreed, with the sommerlier, however, that the ethyl alcohol aroma was very strong. His comment was that he was sure that the 19-21% on the bottle was too low, and I woudl not be surprised. The obvious alcohol was the only drawback tot he entire experience.

On the palate - Sugared pecans, walnuts, chocolate and some totally unexpected citrus acid bite. I do not know if the citrus is normal, but I could taste something like it on the sides of my tongue. The wine was medium sweet - nothing like a vintage port in sweetness. No need for insulin but the sugar was there in the background without taking over the wine with cloyness. Very very long finish. I could still taste it minutes after swallowing. This is a wine to savor very slowly. My mother really liked it. (94 pts.)