TN: 1875 Isaias W. Hellman California Port

[Eric Ifune]

Not sure where to post this note, it's Californian and not even made from Portuguese varieties, yet it's too distinctive to be in Other Discussions.
Private Stock Isaias W. Hellman
Port Wine
Cucamonga Vineyard
San Bernardino County, California
Vintage 1875
Bottled from wood 1921
This is a distinct wine separate from the Angelica also from 1875 and bottled in 1921.
Isaias Hellman was one of the forgotten giants of Californian history. One of the earliest white, non-Hispanic settlers of Los Angeles. Arrived from Germany at age 16. Originally ran a dry good store, became a banker seredipidously. Founded the Merchants and Farmers Bank of Los Angeles, later became board member of multiple Californian financial institutions including Wells Fargo. Financed the starting of the LA Times, the Californian oil industry, local railroads (including the Red Car), and brought the Union Pacific to Los Angeles. Regent of the University of California and one of the founders of the University of Southern California. President of B’nai B’rith and built the first Los Angeles temple. Helped finance the rebuilding of San Francisco after the earthquake of 1906. Controlled the California wine industry via the California Wine Association (controlled seven eighths of the California wine harvest). He bought the land which became Rancho Cucamonga and planted this vineyard. Bottled after his death in 1920.
Full hand blown quart bottle. (Bonus!) Bottle appears older than 1921. (Reused?) Heavy deposit of fine, dark sediment adherent to the sides of the bottle.
Glowing copper, amber color with gold green rim.
Rich aromas; iodine, meaty, sweet dark fruits. Maple syrup and tangerines. The complexity of long barrel age. Barest hint of VA. Not unlike a very rich Boal Madeira.
Very full, rich palate. Velvety, unctuous mouth feel. Nutty and sweet, but with excellent balancing acidity. Pecans and pralines. I swear I also detect Zinfandel flavors. Now I know that the Cucamonga vineyard had a lot of Zinfandel planted. Is it just my imagination, or can a 137 year old wine still have varietal characteristics?
Long finish, bit of bitterness on the end.
Lovely and fascinating wine, the oldest Californian I’ve had.
I'd give it a 96. It out shown a very excellent 1982 Mouton with Christmas dinner.

[Andy Velebil]

Eric,

Wow, thanks for the note and background on this rare part of California wine history. I've moved this to the TN Forum so it's easily accessible in the TNDB.

[Steve Pollack]

Very cool and interesting note, Eric. Thanks!

[Eric Ifune]

The next day, (an entire quart is really quite a bit!) still sweet with good balance. Much of the initial fruit has dissapated, including the Zinfandel flavors. The caramel and toffee flavors have come to the forefront. This tastes more like I expected when first opening. I'm going to say it tastes similar to the V. Sattui Madeira (California) with perhaps a bit more depth. Not a far fetched analogy since the V. Sattui is an old solera.

[Roy Hersh]

Why is it that all the really old and very interesting bottles of domestic port that I've ever heard of from the 19th century are all from 1875?

[Eric Ifune]

I'm assuming the Hellman had something to do with it. He had huge real estate holdings (Los Angeles, Cucamonga, Orange County, Lake Tahoe, Northern California as well.) He controlled the California Wine Association for many years, and had an interest in wine. He hired a French viticulturalist to run his vinyards.