My Month in Portugal ... random thoughts

[Roy Hersh]

I was delivered on a plane from Brussels yesterday and woke up in Porto. Just like that.

Time permitting, I will reply and keep up with progress on experiences whilst here, until my departure in July.

[John F. Newman]

definitely want to hear about it. While my wife is going this year to the Algarve (and fate didn't have it in the cards for me to go this year), I may have her convinced for June 2014 and in the north. We would be with the kiddies, so I don't think we could partake in one of your tours, but I would love to learn more of the area from your exploits (of course, I don't mind hearing about the wine either!)

[David Spriggs]

I'm looking forward to it Roy!

[Bradley Bogdan]

Me as well!

[Miguel Simoes]

Same, looking fwd to seeing it through your eyes :)
Have you stayed in Porto for that long before?
Should give you a perspective that you don't get when staying just a few days!

[Roy Hersh]

Time to catch up here!

So I checked into my "humble abode" where I have rented a bedroom and a separate room that has been converted for me into a tasting room. There is fresh air and lots of light, which I am very pleased about. I am going to unpack the deliveries of 2011 Vintage Ports when I am done with this posting, to see exactly what's here. Half of the bottles have arrived since I checked in.

My first few days and nights have been filled with a combination of making some appointments with brand new producers that I had been in touch with in the recent past, as I want to get to know them, taste through their wines and Ports and determine which would be worthy of visits for future tours. Additionally, I have seen a few friends and scouted out some new restaurants while here too.

One night was spent with the brothers Devesas and nice bottles of DOC wines and Port. It was great to see them both. The Dalva 20 year old Tawny was really a beauty and glad to get to try it again, in addition to their White Port which is a 15 year old version, which was also very solid. I brought a 1966 Moreira Colheita which is an odd duck. It can require two weeks of decant time, and once showed really well in a pop and pour scenario. I had no choice but to serve it undecanted this time and it was actually really good and Goncalo and Gustavo also really liked it.

The next day I hung out and worked on the newsletter. That night, I met up with Mr. and Mrs. Oscar Quevedo. We went to a great restaurant for a tapas meal. They surprised me with having two other couples join us, both of whom are good friends too. Ryan and Gabriella Opaz who my wife and I first met and hung out with a few times in Barcelona in 2010, although I've known Ryan since 2005 when both Catavino and FTLOP launched nearly at the same time. The other couple I'd only met and drank wines with the husband, Pedro before and he is one of the heads (and family member) of Pocas and his wife and adorable daughter joined us too. We had a tapas style meal which was outstanding and at a really great restaurant by the sea. WInes that night were eclectic and all done blind ... coincidentally, not a single one from Portugal. Mine were from CA and WA respectively, but others were from Spain, and Italy, etc. Every single bottle showed well that night and it was just a ton of fun to be with these friends and having amazing food and wine pairings and testing our blind tasting acumen.

On Saturday I got some more work out of the way during the day and later took an olde fashioned tram for a two hour Port and cheese tour around Porto, replete with a 3-piece Fado band with an incredible young woman singing. She brought her 7 year old daughter along who not only was a real cutie pie, but she got up and sang Fado solos and also a few duets with her mother. To have a voice like that blew me away, both daughter and mother in fact. Graham's was the featured provider and I was along because the place that I am staying at is the co-owner of the tram production and the owner asked me along to see what I thought. I was not drinking or eating as it was very late afternoon and I had a big dinner planned shortly thereafter. The owner did coax me to try the 1999 Quinta dos Malvedo Vintage Port which I must admit was absolutely rocking. In fact, the SFE employee Joao Ribeira was on board to provide insight into the Altano white and reds served, as well as a few Ports from Graham's. I was busy videoing and photographing it all, but was glad to have tasted that excellent 1999.

Later that night, I met with a friend and took her to O'Paparico for what turned out to be a 5.5 hour dinner. It was great to catch up with her and see Sergio. His entire staff was new since I was there last in October. A bit surprising, considering how long they had all been together. That being said, the food was absolutely great as always. The owner of a top Vinho Verde producer, Soalheiro was having a big party there and he sent over a fantastic Alvarinho for us and I returned the favor with some 1991 Ridge Geezerville I had brought and we both appreciated one another's wines. Additionally, we had a great Vertice and requisite Port as well. A fantastic time all around.

Well that brings me up to date. Tonight I am going to be meeting with the owner of a producer that is new to me and I'll be tasting through her portfolio and having a leisurely dinner together. It is always fun to meet with new producers, many like this have been added to our tour itineraries and some have become good friends over the years, too.

Ok, time to go and unpack the 2011 VP's. More soon.

[Eric Ifune]

1991 Ridge Geezerville

I'm feeling pretty much geezerville these days myself!

Good to see you're getting some work done!

[Roy Hersh]

Went out to dinner with Vinho Verde producer, Solar do Louredo that is making some pretty fine juice, 3 whites and a red. They own 60 hectares of which 16 is already producing and the other 44 will come on line in two more years and they have plans to ramp up to a million bottles per year. The first vintage was 2010 in modern times. Good enough to keep on the front burner for now, but I wouldn't take a group there until they have the full property producing. That being said, even the red was quite good.

My first round of 2011 Vintage Port tasting begins in 9 hours. Heading to bed.

[Roy Hersh]

Well that did not happen, unpacking was a much bigger ordeal than I imagined. I have not received all of the bottles yet, as a couple more are supposed to be coming tomorrow. There are so far 63 unique bottlings; and some that few if anybody have ever heard of. One for example is DR or better known as Dourus, but there are a few others that are even more obscure. I will get to try my first Skeffington VP, woooo hoooo. There's fun items like Capela, VVVVP, Bioma, Nacional, Stone Terraces, etc. When I wake up, I will decide the matrix and how to do these in flights that will allow me at least 3 days with every bottle. Don't think I will do four days, except with maybe a dozen of these. Instead of 3x per day, which ate up my tongue with the tannic 2007's, I think that 2x per day is more reasonable. With a few more and some done 4 days, that will be 400 separate tasting notes.

Ok, that's it for now. Time for bed for sure.

[Roy Hersh]

At least for now it looks like the last of the bottles have arrived and 64 is the final tally of 2011's.

Last night I went to the home of the owner of a new producer that I'd never heard of until quite recently: BULAS. I doubt many others here have heard of them either, but tomorrow I will provide more insight on the FOR THE LOVE OF PORT facebook page, with photos, etc.

In addition to trying some new restaurants, I have also been seeking out new producers of Port and Douro still wines, and the aforementioned VV company as well.

But back to Bulas. The family welcomed me and spent time getting to know one another and introduced me to their family. We sat and talked for a long while and they explained some of the history of their property, we searched for it on Google maps and had some nice appetizers to start. They then opened a couple of intriguing reds with dinner, a Touriga Nacional from 2009 which was quite good and immediately enjoyable. A second DOC red wine followed, which was a 2010 Fozceira Tinto, a Douro blend of Touriga Nacional and Franca, as well as Sousao and Tinta Roriz which really shined in this wine. It is so young and already drinking very well in it's youth, earthy, balanced and impeccably done in an "old school" Douro style of bygone years.

After dinner came their finely tuned 2007 Bulas LBV, very nice and up there with some of the best of 2007, with only a few exceptions that I've tasted that were better. Mighty impressive with the cork having been pulled, this unfiltered brambly beauty was stunning in its purity of grape, smooth and really elegant. Next up came their 2009 Vintage Port, which is their very first vintage they've produced under this label. It was pretty and nicely balanced, so easy to drink that had their not been several other bottlings to taste, it would have been very easy to finish this off while conversing with my hosts. This easily compares with some of the big guns from 2009. Impressive to say the least and had it been decanted, it would have presented even better, consider my rating of 93 points in a "pop and pour" scenario no less. Hard to believe this was their first vintage, and I had a 2nd glass to ensure I was evaluating this accurately.

Moreover, the really big surprise from their lineup ware their Tawny Ports. The 10 year old was quite solid and more evolved than most, with dates and pecan flavors in an off-dry style and somewhat reminiscent of a Ramos Pinto 10 y.o. Tawny.. On the other hand, the 20 year old Tawny was insanely good, no, actually it was absolutely great, and incredibly shows as well as the biggest and brightest of the 20 year old Tawny class. This is really "old school" Douro style and looks as old as most 30 year old Tawnies and is filled with maple and hazelnut and liquiefied toffee, for those that prefer such torrefacted beauties. This had a finish that was able to be measured in minutes and with a gorgeous silky texture too. The 30 year old was very good as well, more elegant and with a toasted/roasted character which I also enjoyed; seamless and seductive and round.

The stars of the show were the LBV, 2009 VP and 20 year old Tawny. These three in particular are immediately worthy of mention along with household names we bandy about here all the time. Very impressive given I had never even heard of Bulas until recently. They have some real treats up in the Douro in addition to these bottlings, but we'll save those for a visit with our group in the future. I received the Bulas 2011 VIntage Port before my actul arrival and look forward to sampling that bottling, in due course. A great first visit and I am sure the name Bulas will become much better known over the next few years. I hope they can find a great importer in the USA!

[Roy Hersh]

I am already deeply ensconced in my tasing of 2011's. Two sessions today of 13 bottles, was just a wonderful experience, but really hard work. Ok, so maybe not as tough as 2007's which were more brutal in their tannic structure. Most today were BIG in terms of the tannins, but I consider them more refined in a dusty and/or chalky sensation and not mouth puckering, punishing or astringent. It is still a real chore to slowly document each facet of each bottle, all in numbered bags and painstakingly and slowly evaluated one by one. I spent nearly 3 hours on each of the two sessions of the thirteen bottles. Sure, you may think I am very slow and deliberate, but it is important to get these right and spend ample time with every single glass.

[Miguel Simoes]

These 2011s are keeping you up late out there!
Great to read along :)

[Andy Velebil]

24 hours later and no update. The Douro must have claimed his sole

[Roy Hersh]

Not only haven't I gone to Douro yet, I have been here a week as of Thursday mid-day ... and I know this is hard to believe ... I have yet to go to Gaia even once, nor even Porto's waterfront.



What are the odds of that, boys and girls?

[Miguel Simoes]

You're a true local now :)
soon enough and you'll be speaking Portuguese w a funny accent too
(People from Porto and the north of Portugal in general speak w a v distinguishable accent. Porto becomes Puorrto, vintage becomes biintage, ...)

[Eric Ifune]

Roy, can you tell us more of the vineyards and facilities of Bulas?
Are their wines available in Portugal at least? Sounds like something to try there.

[Roy Hersh]

Eric,

Time won't permit me to elaborate at the moment, but I can tell you that there is a BULAS FB page you can check out.




To all,

Today was spent in the tasting room here from 11-4 p.m. Then I met with a friend and we went for a long walk until 7 p.m. and had a bit to eat at the waterfront in Porto. I was then guided to some areas in Gaia that I've never seen before, and that is saying the least but more when time permits.

Tonight, dinner with Rupert and Paul and wives. 2001 Chryseia was rocking. Dessert was 1964 Malvedos, 1963 Dow and a 1983 Cockburn's. I explained about not decanting and yep, another clean and beautiful bottle. Must get some sleep.

[Tom Archer]

can you tell us more of the vineyards and facilities of Bulas?

I got cornered by a lady from Bulas during the sighted session of the world presentation.

The leaflet she presented me with cites Quinta Da Costa De Baixo - Gouvinhas

Completely new name to me, although from the leaflet it seems they declared 2009 as well as 2011

The 2011 had a modest nose, great intensity and decent palate. Middle ranking in my blind scoring, in what was a very strong field overall.

[Roy Hersh]

Thanks Tom, it was nice to see you at several of the event between Friday and Monday.

Bulas did make a 2009 and I had it and reported on it about a week ago when I had dinner at Isabel's home. Quite good for a 2009. I like the 2011 as well. Not top of the heap but for only a 2nd vintage, very solid.

Now to try to catch up with recent events which have swamped me and especially trying to maintain time for all of the tasting here back at the place I am staying.

Friday was tremendous in terms of the number of Ports consumed for one day. The IVDP and AEVP combined with the Confraria do Vinho do Porto put on one of the largest purely Port events in the history of the trade. It all began in the morning with Bento Amaral who heads up the IVDP tasting room providing opening remarks. He was followed by Charles Symington who spoke at length about the growing season's weather conditions. Dirk Niepoort gave a great talk on his perspective of the 2011 vintage and basic impressions he's had. Very educational to say the least.

From about 10 a.m. until 1 p.m. when everyone had finished off and headed to lunch, some even much earlier ... we were presented with large BLIND flights of 2011 Vintage Ports, that all in all totaled 56 unique bottlings. I was the first to notice TCA in one of them, but what's new. Dirk and Charles were next to me and they were the only winemakers and Dirk agreed immediately. Charles was focused on another flight already.

For me, I felt it was next to impossible for ANYONE present to do justice to 56 Ports in that amount of time in one sitting. We did have water and crackers, but come on .... 56 young Vintage Ports with about 4 minutes per glass. I took copious notes nonetheless and was happy when it was over. But I have to say, that at my humble abode here in Porto, I am VERY happy that I don't have to taste more than 13 per flight. That is challenging. I'll let you decide what to call trying to evaluate 56 and when discussing this with Dirk, of course he agreed that nobody could do justice in tasting so many Ports in one session non-stop that way. Anyhow, I got a kick out of some of the bloggers who were going around spouting scores and which were their favorites. I will admit that I never even bothered to go back to my thorough notes once I received the list of which VP was which. After 20 samples, do you think you could still taste through the massive tannins and acidity and primary fruit? How about 30 or 40 or after 50?


Lunch was so very welcome and I was happy to have a tooth brush with me as I don't think I've ever attained the color in my mouth that rivaled that of a pitch black Port bottle. If felt like there was a carpet on my tongue. Lunch was wonderful and at that affair the entire Port trade showed up and I was amazed at all of the people in the room, the winemakers and owners of all 56 Ports we tasted. Ones that had not been approved yet by the IVDP were not included. Literally this was a who's who of the Port trade with very few people missing, but I can think of 2-3.

After lunch which included Douro wines from just about every one of those producers ... now that was fun ... we went back upstairs to try "sighted" all of the Ports again, with the ability to talk to the winemakers and owners of the bottles/properties. A very nice set up for sure. I went up to taste only a handful that I wanted to check out, after seeing some pretty lofty scores from some of the major critics. I guess I will not be the voice of reason in that regard.

For me, by far and away the best facet of the entire day time program was the Confraria do Vinho do Porto put on a celebration, officially declaring the 2011 Vintage ... in full Confrade costumes. George Sandeman, who heads up the IVDP gave the opening speech in Portuguese and then followed in English. It was excellent and talked about the history of Vintage Port, the early days of the Confraria etc. David Guimaraens turn was next and like Charles in the morning, he gave a very thorough walk through 2011's growing season and also his impressions on the year in historic terms. Fascinating and one of my all-time favorite David lectures. The fun was about to begin.

With the tap of this very long scepter with the dragon's head representing the city of Porto, each Port house represented by an active member of the Confraria present, was called upon to bring up their 2011 Vintage Port and ceremoniously pour the full bottle into a 5 foot tall wine glass that probably could have held 100 bottles of Port. It was very cool to watch. Then David G. puts in a special mixing device and then a thief and pours everyone in the room (150-200 ppl) a few ounces of the cuvee. It was thrilling to see this live for the very first time. All of this was just in one day.

It was now about dinner time and some of us ... about a dozen in all, Tom and his buddy, a friend of mine and me, Axel P. and a handful of others got on the bus and went to Burmester's Lodge for a fantabulous event. We met the fairly new MD of Sogevinus there, along with Carla Tiago who we hung out with for a day at S. Luiz in Douro during the harvest last year. We tried a handful of old Colheitas going back to 1937, several of which I had never seen before, no less knew existed. After that tasting we went into a private room (although the lodge was closed hours earlier) where we had a delicious dinner with each course paired with wines. Dessert was unreal, but as that is their version of Scion, I'll talk about it next time. It is nearly 2:30 a.m. here and before starting this, I just finished my night time tasting session. Sorry for typos, I do not have the energy to reread this now and may edit mistakes tomorrow if time permits.

[Jeff G.]

With the tap of this very long scepter with the dragon's head representing the city of Porto, each Port house represented by an active member of the Confraria present, was called upon to bring up their 2011 Vintage Port and ceremoniously pour the full bottle into a 5 foot tall wine glass that probably could have held 100 bottles of Port. It was very cool to watch. Then David G. puts in a special mixing device and then a thief and pours everyone in the room (150-200 ppl) a few ounces of the cuvee. It was thrilling to see this live for the very first time. All of this was just in one day.

hopefully the bottles were tasted for TCA before being put into a travelling glass.