TN: 2003 Taylor Vintage Port

[Ray Barnes]

Once again, I've been away considerable time due to a family medical situation. In this case, it was my mother's serious illness and eventual passing away on September 22, 2011. October 1st was the day of her funeral reception at her home, with over 50 attendees, the largest gathering there I can remember. Seven wines were served, the 2003 Taylor being the last. I might have preferred a happier occasion for this wine, but we wanted the best send off possible.

The wine is indeed on the dark violet to purple side. If you put your hand under a glass of this, you won't see it. This is dense! I found the bouquet was a mix of incense and cassis, with maybe a touch of vanilla. While I was pouring the wine in the few remaining attendees' glasses, I was picking up the bouquet. Whoa, it's open. In the mouth, and I must have held the first sip for over a minute, there was an initial mix of cherry liqueur (kirsch) and cassis, and later, raspberry. What was very impressive, I think, was how well the 20.5% alcohol was integrated with the fruit. It has great purity of flavour, while at the same time, not oppressively heavy weight. I have to admit, this was a surprise. The mainstream wine press has described this wine as Chateau Latour on steroids. This wine has restrained power, but overall, its cohesion commands admiration. It's a feminine wine - almost like Chateau Margaux, not Latour.

My mother is in a different place - and while drinking this wine, I almost felt somewhere between there and here. Captivating. Even more surprising, was that this relatively young wine required no decanting.

The length and aftertaste was perhaps 5 minutes - exceeding any other wine I have ever drank, fortified or not. One attendee felt a very warm, positive sensation after swallowing this wine. Everyone proclaimed it the most superior port they have ever tasted. I confirm this, but have not had many ports.

After the last drop was poured, the empty bottle, for some time, was still holding the bouquet. Overall, a stunning effort. This is among the top 5 wines I have drank over 25+ years, alongside Chateau Margaux, Corton Charlemagne, Egon Muller's Scharzhofberger, Robert Mondavi's To Kalon Cabernet, and Zind Humbrecht's Pinot Gris Clos Windsbuhl. It is currently retailing in British Columbia for about $145 a bottle - and is worth every cent.

[Roy Hersh]

HI Ray,

So sorry to hear of your mother's passing! I hope you and your wife are well.

Although a somber occasion, I am happy to hear how much you enjoyed the 2003 Taylor VP. Thanks for the outstanding and heartfelt post.

[Ray Barnes]

Hi Roy, I humbly thank you for your very personal response. My wife is not having an easy time of things, since the Philippines was swept with two major typhoons in 5 days around the same time as Mom passed away. We are still dealing with the aftermath of both events.

I have 5 bottles left of this wonderful port. It was a relief, during the reception, to speak for a few minutes about the lineage of this great wine and the winemaker, its ageing potential well into the 20th century, and perhaps even beyond that, and the praise of the wine press. Yet at the same time I was encouraging everyone to trust their own tastes. Even those who had never had a sip of port in their life until that afternoon, were raving about it, a revelation of the greatness of Portugese fortified wine. If only I could have followed up on that with a vintage madeira. Well, someday...

[Roy Hersh]

Hi Ray,

What does typhoons in the Philippines have to do with anything? I am not catching onto the reference.

[Ray Barnes]

Hi Roy, as far as I know, at least 1 of my wife's aunts was swept away in the flooding, and several of her friends in the region stricken by the storms are still in serious difficulty.

To correct my earlier remarks, I did mention at the reception the wine had the potential to last well into the 21st century and perhaps the beginning of the 22nd. That raised a few eyebrows.

[Roy Hersh]

Wow, sorry to hear you have family members who were lost that way. Tragic.

As to the 22nd century ... if you are around here to find out, please send me a message using a Ouija board.

[Ray Barnes]

I think my daughter will have to let us both know by the Ouija board or similar means of communication.