For The Love Of Port

I don't write many drinking notes about any wines, Portugese or not, but can't contain my enthusiasm. This just might be the best white table wine I have had in 2012 thus far - granted, it's been a lean year, thanks to estate work followed by tax season, still in progress.

On the advice of an excellent local consultant, yesterday I snapped up a bottle of Domaine des Baumard's 2008 Clos du Papillon. The main Loire writer for the Wine Advocate gave this wine an outstanding score in spite of (so I felt) being somewhat indifferent to its style. Personally, I was utterly hooked by it right from the get go. Typical from this small region, the wine has very well developed acidity and minerality; but surprisingly, even at 4 years, it is open, supple, and has very fine fruit (hints of pineapple, apricot and citrus). It has quite a combination of richness and sharpness (or some might say, delineation) which I found quite amazing. This was reminiscent, surprisingly, of some wines I have tasted from the Saar region of Germany. This part of the Loire has a bit of a cult following, such as among the British wine press, and for good reason.

This was consumed with Brie, a heavenly match. I have felt so caught up in a wine experience like this since my introduction to Terrantez about 5 months ago. An hour passed, in contemplation of this wine, very quickly.

For the record, the bouquet needs time to develop, this sediment-free white could use decanting. It is dominated by chamomile and honeysuckle, with again the fruit (persistence necessary). It is 14% alcohol and one hardly notices it at all. The acidity is very evident on the edge of the tongue, but it far from unpleasant. Great length.

This chenin blanc is a love it or hate it style, I suspect, quite a departure from the norm. There is neither oak nor (I suspect) malolactic fermentation. It is old school Savennieres, yet very good now - although I suspect it has a long life ahead. At $44.70 a bottle here in BC, it is priced very fairly for the quality, although I hope to find it for a little less south of the border. If it goes on sale, I plan to get as much as possible. For the experience, this is worth seeking out.

As a postscript, this wine is also very powerful - so much so, it could be matched with some dishes for which one might normally serve a Pinot Noir. This is like a Beaujolais in reverse, a white wine being to a large extent a red wine in disguise. In addition to the fruit, floral components and acidity, the wine has even a touch of chalkiness. I suspect with several years more ageing, its minerality will be enhanced. It is very full bodied and complex.

One of the other Clos du Papillon winemakers has referred to this vineyard as Grand Cru. I believe this is a lieux-dit, but making wine capable of grand cru quality.

I believe JJ Buckley of Oakland CA has this in stock for less than $35 a bottle - which would be a great bargain.

If I may be permitted an additional postscript, I've been struggling with trying to figure out how to describe this wine - and this kind of exercise is always beneficial for the expansion of one's palette, and the underlying overall development of consciousness.

There was something in the balance of this wine which gave it, for lack of better terminology, "cut" or "bite". In revisiting Frank Schoonmaker's classic "The Wines of Germany", this author spoke of the wines of the Saar having in lean years a stahlig or steely quality. Whether this contributes to the wine being "mineral" I do not know, but this "nerve" gives an impression of strength and power. Having tasted a few great Saars, including the Egon Muller 1971 Scharzhofberger Spatlese in 1999 (fabulous), I believe this is a very positive attribute, providing it is balanced with acidity, alcohol, fruit, bouquet, and so on. Sometimes when one experiences a complex, powerful, multi-dimensional wine (harking back again to the Terrantez initiation last December), one feels an attunement to something beyond what is in the glass, even if one is somewhat at a loss to describe it.

It is said that Savennieres is "cerebral", although those using this term often fail to explain its context. Speaking only for myself, it makes one think more deeply than normal. It is my own opinion that this wine has much in common with the Saar, the mutual combined effects of highly acidic grapes grown in steep, schistous terroirs, and somewhat pushed to their limits by northern latitudes. They are fascinating.

Great note Ray. I love the wines from Savennieres, just as those from Vouvray and Montlouis. They really need age to show their best, they get that wonderful hay and honey aroma with age, but often they are so good I struggle to give 'em the time they deserve!

Thanks Ronald. In addition to the areas you mentioned, I think you could add Quarts de Chaume and Bonnezaux too. The top whites of the Loire I feel can rub shoulders qualitatively with the other great white regions of France. Given my current age of 50, I don't feel inclined to hang on to these wines longer than necessary, but it would be great fun to try out a classic Savennieres. Suffice to say, a mature Coulee de Serrant is on my wine bucket list.

It's worth noting that Clos du Papillon's soil is not quite as poor as the Coulee, there is less volcanic schist and more sand, which makes the wines a bit lighter and quicker to develop. I just finished the bottle this afternoon. Considering it was unscrewed 2 weeks ago, and the wine was still very drinkable, that is impressive.

Cheers,
Ray