1998 Quinta do Crasto LBV Port

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TN: Quinta do Crasto 1998 Late Bottled Vintage Porto, Unfiltered (Single Quinta LBV), Bottled 2003, 19.5 PABV, $25/750, Dorothy Lane Market, Oakwood, OH: Broadbent Selections, importer.

Nice full-size vintage-branded cork, of the general quality I'd wish I'd find in German wine bottles but never do. This bottle was double-decanted through a port filter, showing only the slightest traces of sediment.

A medium translucent light reddish-purple color, perhaps a bit lighter in color than what I'd have expected.

On opening, the predominant scents were of freshly ground black pepper, wax shoe polish, furniture polish, cloves, pink bubble gum, and ripe red cherries, with overtones of cool mint and vanillin, a much different sensory profile than one is used to in say, perhaps, Graham's or Croft's.

A mid-bodied, smooth port of restrained sweetness, with light ripe tannins, virtually no spiritous sensation, and a nice medium finish.

Develops at four hours a neat sort of woody/raspy/leather multi-berry compote note. It's evolving rapidly.

At 24 hours, the wine has now come together smoothly. The color is deeper and denser; the fruit scents are now raspberry, plum, and vanilla créme brulée with some darker notes lurking underneath, and the palate seems both more structured and more integrated--a peep of spirits, a twist of tannin, a splash of acidity, and fruit-sugar sweetness over a medium finish.

The winemaker didn't make the mistake of trying for a bigger wine here than the fruit would allow, and so got to a very engaging drink for the near term. I'd call it about an 89/100 now, close to its peak, with perhaps a little to be gained from a bit of extra cellaring. To be recommended at this price and quality level for something to grab to neatly show off the style traditional LBV and the house style, too. Overall a fine and enjoyable effort.

On the whole, the only giveaway that this port is from the lighter 1998 vintage is the color, with perhaps the overall gentleness of the presentation and lack of sediment.

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