Do you find "heat" or too much alcohol in your Por

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Roy Hersh
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Do you find "heat" or too much alcohol in your Por

Post by Roy Hersh »

I am very picky about the alcohol in Port.

There are many reasons a Port can show alcohol, since in all Port the ratio remains the same. There are 4 parts grape juice to one part aguardente (brandy/neutral spirits) in the blend that prematurely stops fermentation by killing the active yeast cells during fermentation. This process is called "fortification" and is fun to see in action, but I digress.

The alcohol can show up in Vintage Port in the following ways (from young to old):

* In a cask sample, the parts have not integrated yet, meaning that there is no symmetry between the fruit and alcohol and it comes off as disjointed on the nose and especially the finish. You feel the heat of raw alc.

* In a young Port ... from release until 20 years of age) it is not uncommon to find alcohol on either the nose or on the palate, possibly both. I find this is common with Graham's, Ferreira and Taylor in almost every case. These producers normally take longer to come together than others and especially the integration of the alcohol (although there are other producers that fit this mold too).

In mines beginning to gain maturity at 20-30 years of age, the alcohol should no longer be noticeable and when it is, I consider it a flaw (in most cases). If it is very minor and does not distract the taster from enjoying the other aromatics, flavor profile and especially the finish (void of heat) it can be forgiven. In cases where it detracts from the nose by giving off a wafting spirity character, or the heat is felt once the wine is swallowed, in my evaluations I then deduct 2-5 points, depending on how prominent it still is. Rarely do I deduct more than 3 points unless this is a very significant flaw.

* In mature wines, it is assumed that the alcohol would have fully integrated. But there are some wines that are past their prime at this point and the fruit has started to fade or recede, leaving the alcohol to protrude. This is not a flaw, but typical of the life cycle of a Vintage Port. Whether this happens at 35 years old or 75+ years old, depends on the greatness of the VP.
Ambition driven by passion, rather than money, is as strong an elixir as is Port. http://www.fortheloveofport.com
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Derek T.
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Post by Derek T. »

Roy,

I was once told that the temperature the port is served at affects the amount of alcohol that comes through the nose. Aparently this is something to do with higher temperature causing more alcohol to evaporate above the wine. Is this true in your experience?
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Roy Hersh
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Post by Roy Hersh »

I don't know the science behind it but I think that drinking Port slightly cooler than room temperature helps keep the alcohol slightly less prevalent. In a recent example, a friend opened a 1963 Quinta do Noval Nacional. It was showing way too much spirit compared to my other experiences with this fabulous wine. I asked if he'd put the bottle in the refrigerator for ten minutes. He did not know why I had asked him to do so as it was his first experience with the wine and I had not yet even told him that I had found this flaw. When he removed the bottle it was probably about 5-8 degrees (Farenheit) lower than before. He immediately noticed the VP was more pleasant to drink and that the alcohol was not as obtrusive as before.

Why this is the case, I have no idea.
Ambition driven by passion, rather than money, is as strong an elixir as is Port. http://www.fortheloveofport.com
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Derek T.
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Post by Derek T. »

Roy,

The fact that you managed to persuade someone to carry out an experenment with a bottle of 1963 Nacional is more amazing than the chemistry !
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