For The Love Of Port

I have had the pleasure to enjoy two bottles of Fonseca Vintage Port recently. The first was the consistently good 1985 Fonseca from a couple weeks ago:

Impressively dark and concentrated color. The nose is wild with dates, plums, cherry, and cinnamon. Even after decanting for 9 hours the nose was noticeably alcoholic. 30 hours later as I sip this the alcohol is still noticeable but it is mostly integrated and is no longer a dominant feature. Hugely structured on the palate. Firm tannin, soft acidity, and rich fruit lead to a warm, spicy, chocolaty finish with incredible length. 95


Inspired by the recent poll, I opened up a bottle of the young 2000 Fonseca last night:

A nicely dark red color. The nose seems closed offering subtle hints of raspberry, cinnamon, and alcohol. The palate is wonderfully full and rich with firm tannin and good acidity. At this point the wine has seen little air but is drinking well. I suspect it will improve with extended decanting. Right now, 50 + 5 + 10 + 16 + 9

24 hours later a wonderful transformation has taken place. The wine has gained an incredible depth of color and the nose is more complex, adding moist earth and dark chocolate to the mix. The alcohol is very well integrated. On the palate, the tannins are firm and gripping, with noticeable acidity and moderate sweetness. Though more open than yesterday, it does not provide as much pleasure as one year ago. Perhaps this is starting to close down a bit. Now, 50 + 5 + 12 + 17 + 9 with plenty of potential. 93 +

I wish I could have tasted the 1985 when it was young but even so, I feel like I get a sense of where the 2000 is headed.

Kris,

Nice notes...before I read your TN, I was going to ask if you thought the 2000 was closing down, then you answered my question before i could ask it. Seems some of the 2000's are starting to shut down now. I've had the 2000 Noval and thought the same of it.

Andy,

Based on my experience I'd definitely say it's closing down. I did save half the bottle in a 12 ounce soda bottle. I filled it up to the very top and stuck a crown cap on it. I still have all my equipment from my homebrewing days and the bottle capper comes in handy. I'll open this up in a week and give it some more air to see if extended air helps open it up.

I did have a half bottle of Graham's 2000 3 weeks ago and if it was not shut down, this wine was not up to its reputation!

I would say, generally, the 2000's are starting the shut down phase. Time to let them get their beauty sleep 8)

If you guys hadn't drunk so many of these as infants think how many we could have enjoyed when they all grow up

Think of this when you open your next bottle of 2003 :?

Derek

Hi Derek,

But it's fun to taste these young too. I've got lots more bottles of the 2000 Fonseca so my plan is to open one every couple years to follow its development.

Does anyone know how long it takes for these to open back up once they've start to shut down?

Kris,

The time it takes for a wine to wake up after going to sleep seems to vary by producer and vintage from what I have read. 6 years seems to be about the average from my books.

So if you open one every couple of years you will be able to let us all know when we should open the small stocks we have left for maturing in the UK.

Alex