For The Love Of Port

Hello FTLOP Members. Just a question and suggestion. I'm new to FTLOP and have just read about 1977 Taylor Floodgate having a problem with their corks, and I have seen observations where the description of a bottle of Vintage Port is described as having "Seepage". Is this caused by the cork drying out and allowing the Port to escape and also allowing air to enter the bottle? What would happen to the Port if this happens? Would it make the Port sour or have a spoiled taste. Perhaps something like vinegar? I am a Wrench and Tool kind of man and love Home Depot. Funny I have an expensive taste for Vintage Port. My point is, the cork is to ensure that it seals the bottle 100%, keeping the wine pure, not allowing seepage or air in. A suggestion that just crossed my mind is to dip your new bottles purchased in a product called liquid rubber. Tool Manufacturers do this for various tools such as pliers, wire cutters and hammers or any tool that would benefit by adding additional grip to the tool. Home Depot sells a product called Plastic Dip. Bottles of wine can be dipped into this liquid plastic/rubber to assist in the sealing of wine. It comes in colors such as blue, black and yellow. I think it might be a great and inexpensive additional way to seal a bottle of wine that would be stored for any great length of time. I am going to buy some today, and will post again about the success or failure of using this. Love to hear your comments and suggestions. Gerard

FYI,
I've moved both your topics to the main Forum, and out of the Tasting Note section. No worries, it's just that the TN section is only for Port tasting notes.

And to the forum, glad to have you with us!

Somehow I do not think plastic that is not food grade is a good idea. I would try wax.

The Port industry had a big problem with corks back then. Funny since most corks for wine come from Spain and Portugal. Because of the irregularity of the corks, they sometimes didn't form a good seal with the glass. Generally the bottles affected will show more advanced than they should with muted flavors and aromas. The wines will not be bad, just not nearly as good as the better bottles.

I also wouldn't use a non food grade product on the wines.

Gerard Portlover wrote:... I have seen observations where the description of a bottle of Vintage Port is described as having "Seepage". Is this caused by the cork drying out and allowing the Port to escape and also allowing air to enter the bottle?

Yes, generally.

What would happen to the Port if this happens? Would it make the Port sour or have a spoiled taste. Perhaps something like vinegar?

Generally no. The alcohol content of Port, at about 20%, will inhibit acetobacter and most other spoilage organisms that produce acids. The introduction of excessive air can lead to oxidation, which some might interpret as a spoiled taste. The more common spoiled flavor I find in Port is caused by heat.

My point is, the cork is to ensure that it seals the bottle 100%, keeping the wine pure, not allowing seepage or air in.

That is not strictly true. The cork is not expected to make a 100% impenetrable barrier. Some air seepage is expected and even beneficial for the evolution of Vintage Port. It allows some limited oxidation to occur, which balances with reduction reactions in the wine so that in 20 or 40 years you have something fairly different from what you started with, but nonetheless very pleasant to drink. This is one of the key reasons certain wines which are expected to age still use corks.

Do you have actual leaking bottles you are worried on?

If you had to reseal, buy proper bottling wax. You'll have to chip off all the old stuff. Sometimes, the wax is all that is holding the cork. When you chip away everything the cork is darn near spinning and re-sealing just doesn't make sense.

I wouldn't use rubber - synthetic or natural - as there is too great a risk of unpleasant aromatics getting into the wine over time.

Wax has been proven over time not to cause problems, and is therefore the best option.

A few pointers about wax though:

1) The wax used by wine makers hardens quickly, which is useful when they have hundreds to do in a session, but it does result in a very brittle capsule that doesn't make that good a seal.

2) The bottle sealing wax supplied by British Wax has a small degree of flexibility which makes a very good seal that doesn't crack or chip. I have been using this for several years now with very good results.

3) Clean the neck of the bottle you want to wax first under a cold tap with a little abrasion from a plastic kitchen scourer or stainless steel metal wool. I never use soap for fear of tainting. After drying off the bottle with paper towels, degrease the neck with a paper towel soaked in acetone - even the grease from your finger tips can spoil the seal. Selos are a nuisance as they spoil the seal and can act as a wick - I cut them back with a razor blade so there is clear glass all the way round the neck to form a good seal

4) Be careful heating wax. I use large metal camping mugs as melting pots, and place them in a saucepan with a drop of oil added to help transfer the heat. Melt the wax slowly and don't leave it unattended - boiling wax is a serious fire hazard. The wax works best when just past it's melting point.

5) Dip bottles vertically into the wax for the shortest possible time, remove and then spin in your hands as the excess dribbles off, bringing slowly upright. Commercial waxing operations usually include dunking the necks in cold water, but this doesn't work too well using the British Wax product.

6) If you make a mess of it, cut the wax off before it's fully cooled, or give it a second dip. In the latter case, make sure it's fully cooled first, either by placing in the freezer for a few minutes, or by wetting the first coat with the acetone, which is very volatile and an excellent chilling agent.

7) If air bubbles appear on the new wax, dance a lighted match over the surface before its fully hardened to pop them and seal the void they leave.