For The Love Of Port

Opened early on New Years Eve. Very dark, cork came out in two attempts. After 7 hour decant , we both noticed right a way an astringency not in a pleasant way. VA of some kind and just enough to ruin what would have been a great bottle. Even after three days it's there waiting on the front end enough to evoke a "yuck". NR

Wow, sorry to read. 1985 Fonseca is one if the not the best vintage of the whole decade (would be a good topic discussion). This wine is still an infant, but should've been rocking a lot more than you describe.

Is it from a case you have or a standalone bottle?

It was 1 of 2 bottles from a Winebid auction. I knew it was a bit soon for this wine but I wanted to see if I wanted to add more while it is still reasonably priced and available.

I've not seen or heard of any bottle variation of this Port as you describe. I would assume it was most likely heat damaged at some point during its life.

Andy Velebil wrote:I've not seen or heard of any bottle variation of this Port as you describe. I would assume it was most likely heat damaged at some point during its life.

As I recall, at our 1985 horizontal in Seattle we had two bottles of 1985 Fonseca. One opened the first day was good but not great. Given its relatively disappointing showing (compared to expectations), Roy threw in a second bottle that was indeed great.

Eric Menchen wrote:

Andy Velebil wrote:I've not seen or heard of any bottle variation of this Port as you describe. I would assume it was most likely heat damaged at some point during its life.

As I recall, at our 1985 horizontal in Seattle we had two bottles of 1985 Fonseca. One opened the first day was good but not great. Given its relatively disappointing showing (compared to expectations), Roy threw in a second bottle that was indeed great.

There is some bottle variation with some bottles being very closed and some more open at the moment, a phase it appears to be in. But that isn't anything like what was experienced with this bottle.

Every time I have had this vintage, it's been outstanding, albeit very young still.

I don't have the same experience with VP as many here, which leads to some difficulty in deciding exactly what is going on. In the past, with mostly California Cabs, I didn't see many "corked" wines or have the variances of ~30 year old bottles. In fact it was this same night I opened my 1979 Heitz Martha's Vineyards. The Fonseca, if it had been a good showing could have been WOTN but even on it's long smooth slide downhill the '79 was the best cab I've had in years (not saying much). So what I had hoped was bottle stink, never blew off and is still present in what is left. I hate to pour it out..but yuck. Needless to say, from what I did see, I'm going to get more.

Edward J wrote: In fact it was this same night I opened my 1979 Heitz Martha's Vineyards. The Fonseca, if it had been a good showing could have been WOTN but even on it's long smooth slide downhill the '79 was the best cab I've had in years (not saying much).

That must've been a fun wine. I like the style of CA cabs back then more than I do now. Do you own more of that vintage?

Moses Botbol wrote:

Edward J wrote: In fact it was this same night I opened my 1979 Heitz Martha's Vineyards. The Fonseca, if it had been a good showing could have been WOTN but even on it's long smooth slide downhill the '79 was the best cab I've had in years (not saying much).

That must've been a fun wine. I like the style of CA cabs back then more than I do now. Do you own more of that vintage?

Cool wine

Moses Botbol wrote:
That must've been a fun wine. I like the style of CA cabs back then more than I do now. Do you own more of that vintage?

I did and we enjoyed them. The '79 certainly wasn't the '74 or '76 in my recollection. After about '83 we decided to drink out the cellar and focus on our growing family. I recently raided what was left of my Dad's cellar and found a stash of old cabs I'd forgotten about. I'm not a big fan of todays young huge "drink it now" cab, but I also have no idea of these "cult" wines that are off the charts expensive.

Edward J wrote:

Moses Botbol wrote:
That must've been a fun wine. I like the style of CA cabs back then more than I do now. Do you own more of that vintage?

I did and I'm not a big fan of todays young huge "drink it now" cab, but I also have no idea of these "cult" wines that are off the charts expensive.

I haven't had much if any of the modern CA cult wines. If they are like a modern Caymus, I'd pass. I bought a bottle of Caymus at Costco for a friend's birthday party once and felt embarrassed when I tasted it. Everyone else liked it, but to me it was like raspberry cheesecake. And not in a good way.... Had a bottle of '80 Caymus that was solid though...

I buy Diamond Creek's whenever I see them at auction for reasonable prices.

If you come to Boston, I will open an '85 Fonseca for you that is from a perfectly cellared case.

Edward J wrote:Opened early on New Years Eve. Very dark, cork came out in two attempts. After 7 hour decant , we both noticed right a way an astringency not in a pleasant way. VA of some kind and just enough to ruin what would have been a great bottle. Even after three days it's there waiting on the front end enough to evoke a "yuck". NR

Sad. These are pretty reliably stellar bottles, so I suspect this bottle was heat damaged at some point in its lifetime. It's possible it just wasn't a clean bottle when it was bottled, too.

Stock up on these - they're lifers. Meaning you'll be able to drink them for the rest of your life.

Moses Botbol wrote:

Edward J wrote:

Moses Botbol wrote:
That must've been a fun wine. I like the style of CA cabs back then more than I do now. Do you own more of that vintage?

I did and I'm not a big fan of todays young huge "drink it now" cab, but I also have no idea of these "cult" wines that are off the charts expensive.

I haven't had much if any of the modern CA cult wines. If they are like a modern Caymus, I'd pass. I bought a bottle of Caymus at Costco for a friend's birthday party once and felt embarrassed when I tasted it. Everyone else liked it, but to me it was like raspberry cheesecake. And not in a good way.... Had a bottle of '80 Caymus that was solid though...

I buy Diamond Creek's whenever I see them at auction for reasonable prices.

If you come to Boston, I will open an '85 Fonseca for you that is from a perfectly cellared case.

Would you believe it, I knew I had one bottle of Caymus from my stash left, I just checked a 1980. A bit bin soiled, but top shoulder fill. Probably should drink it up . As for the perfect cellaring of old Ports, Blanche DuBois said, "I have always depended on the kindness of strangers."

I wonder if the 1985 Fonseca was just plain "corked" and what was experienced was TCA?

Anyway, Moses, I wrote an entire article about what I believe are the two best Ports of the decade (1980s) the '85 Fonseca and 1987 Vargellas. I am sure you can find it.

Roy Hersh wrote:Anyway, Moses, I wrote an entire article about what I believe are the two best Ports of the decade (1980s) the '85 Fonseca and 1987 Vargellas.

I can't recall ever having '87 Vargellas or seeing it for sale... Not that I have been looking for that vintage, but maybe I should! Thanks.

Roy Hersh wrote:I wonder if the 1985 Fonseca was just plain "corked" and what was experienced was TCA?

Not corked in any way I could tell and I'm more sensitive to it. This was a metallic front end, everything else was clean and didn't seem cooked either. It could just be that this Winebid bottle was improperly stored somehow before I got it.

Moses Botbol wrote:

Roy Hersh wrote:Anyway, Moses, I wrote an entire article about what I believe are the two best Ports of the decade (1980s) the '85 Fonseca and 1987 Vargellas.

I can't recall ever having '87 Vargellas or seeing it for sale... Not that I have been looking for that vintage, but maybe I should! Thanks.

They're really hard to find. I've done some searching (anniversary year) and have never had any luck.

1987 Malvedos is also superb, and I managed to acquire a case of that. I also got a case of Porto Souza during the buying opportunity, so I'm set for a couple more decades.

The '87s I have (a pair of Vargellas) came through the Chicago Wine Company, a favorite site/auction house of mine to peruse as their site doesn't seem to trigger the work internet filters, haha. I've seen probably a case worth of odd '87s come through there over the past year, so worth keeping an eye on them. And wine-searcher pro, of course, if you're looking to stock up.


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I've had quite a few of the 1987 Vargellas over the years. I had one prisine six pack in my London cellar that come over here two years ago. Chris Forbes visited from TFP a couple of months ago and I served one of these ... a bottle in perfect condition. I wish I could find more of these, as there are only 5 left in my cellar. But in the USA, this is one that is really not easy to find. Considering how relatively easy it is to find 1991 Vargellas, it is hard to understand.