For The Love Of Port

Yesterday 9 of us gathered for a 12-Bottle Ferreira vertical 1960-1995 (missing 1966 & 1978) plus a 1983 LBV and 1983 Q.de Seixo.

From 1960 thru 1991 the style was classic Ferreira, charmingly elegant Ports. Then 1994 & 1995 were bruisers---and by that aside from the aging differences the basic structure just seems like a huge divergence.

And this is not the first time. Maybe 10 years ago I attended a Vesuvio vertical and the exact same---pre-1994 was one style, from 1994 onward it was different.

So, what happened in 1994? Or just a coincidence? Are Vesuvio and Ferreira changes related in the same cause, or not?

ASIDE: Marvelous tasting. A couple were slightly flawed. Additionally, we had a 1977 Dolomore Crusted and a 1958 Krohn Colheita, bottled 2003 as bonus Ports. Roy correctly got the year right and clearly, being an obscure Port, not one got the producer/crusted thing.

There were pretty significant improvements throughout the Douro that started in the 1980s (particularly after Portugal entered the EU in 1986) but really came to fruition in the mid-1990s. I don't think there was really any one thing that happened, but rather several things that came together.

New plantings using grapes thought to be "the best" for Port (due to research conducted in the 1980s) were coming online. Upgrades to wineries were happening. And overall, winemaking processes were improving and modernizing. You can start seeing these kicking in with the 1991 and 1992 vintages, but yeah by 1994 it was full steam ahead.

Then there's the fact that 1994 was just an epic vintage. All of the above aside, 1994 was going to stand out no matter what. But you can see the improvements in 1995 and 1997 as well... 1995 likely would have been declared had it not immediately followed 1994.

94 Ferreira does seem different than other vintages of Ferreira. Less "Ferreira" in style.

Moses Botbol wrote: ↑Fri Mar 20, 2026 10:38 am 94 Ferreira does seem different than other vintages of Ferreira. Less "Ferreira" in style.

Exactly what I mean....it does seem quite different and out of profile. I wondered if it was a new wine-maker.

When did Luís Sottomayor take over as winemaker? He’s had a huge, positive impact on the quality and style of the Sogrape brands. I wonder if 1994 was his first vintage?

Al B. wrote:When did Luís Sottomayor take over as winemaker? He’s had a huge, positive impact on the quality and style of the Sogrape brands. I wonder if 1994 was his first vintage?

While he’s been there for a long time, I think he took over as the “head” winemaker about ~20 yrs ago.