For The Love Of Port

A recent purchase, the capsule on this bottle had been mostly destroyed during a recent move. This was noted before I purchased the bottle, so I figured it would be okay for a few months and marked it for early consumption.

I packed it carefully in my luggage and took it back to Kansas City with me for Thanksgiving (11/27/2008). It was decanted at 11:30 am for a 4:30 Thanksgiving dinner with all the trimmings. Given the recommendations I had seen, that would give me a chance to observe the last hour or three as it finished opening up and then it would be ready in its full glory after dinner.

1963 Fonseca Vintage Port

Deep ruby red in the decanter - brick-like in intensity, but with more scarlet and less rust to the color. In the glass it took on a very slight pinkish hue but was still deeply ruby in the center of the glass. I also wrote down that it had a tawny tone to it, but cannot for the life of me remember that out of several glasses consumed.

The nose was dominated by ripe strawberries and stewed (red) fruits, but it was backed up by a smokey note that provided contrast. The stewed fruits did not make me think of a baked bottle, but rather of a warm fruit soup that I had many years ago in Denmark. That's a pleasant memory, just in case you were wondering.

The stewed fruits carried over into the mouth - a blend of strawberry jam, ripe raspberries, and stewed currants or cranberries. It displayed a strong structure, but not overt tannins - at this point in its life they're so well integrated as to be almost undetectable. It was very smooth, with just a little bit of heat to remind you that it is an alcoholic drink.

I found the finish mostly unremarkable, noting only a little grape stem and heat. It was smooth and of moderate length.

I was surprised, though I'm not sure why, to find that it paired very well with turkey and dressing. The salty, rich gravy provided an excellent counter-point to the sweet and smooth Port.

After dinner, dessert, and a short break to let things settle (+7 hours), the taste took on some chocolate and sweet cherry notes. It felt like this was the sweet spot where it was showing best, and it was also at this time that I think I began to understand what a "feminine" style means. The Port was silky in the mouth and caressed the soft palate. It was sweet without being cloying, and complex without being confusing. Each sip leaves you wanting another, but without causing cravings. All-in-all superb.

This ranks in my top 5, though its position isn't yet settled. It will not unseat the 1906 Brunheda Colheita. I think it's going to end up ahead of the 1970 Taylor but behind the Noval 40-yr old. So probably 3rd or 4th... at least until something else comes along!

Glenn,

Great TN and knowing your palate, I can tell that had you scored this, as some of us do numerically, you'd have been in the 96-98 point range. It is a beautiful VP and initially I was at "uh oh" when I read "stewed" but then the rest of your note had me changing my thoughts and realizing how much you enjoyed it. Glad you are finding the true beauty of what a great, somewhat mature Port can deliver.

Roy Hersh wrote:Glenn,

Great TN and knowing your palate, I can tell that had you scored this, as some of us do numerically, you'd have been in the 96-98 point range. It is a beautiful VP and initially I was at "uh oh" when I read "stewed" but then the rest of your note had me changing my thoughts and realizing how much you enjoyed it. Glad you are finding the true beauty of what a great, somewhat mature Port can deliver.

Yes, I very much enjoyed it as did the rest of my family. You are probably correct that if I gave out numerical scores it would probably be in the 96-98 range.

I'm always wary of using terms that have negative connotations, but "stewed fruits" was all I could think of in this case for descriptive purposes. It wasn't a bad thing at all, and I'm glad that you were able to see that after finishing the TN. I guess I still lack the proper terminology to be able to describe it in traditionally "positive" terms. Some day!

("Fruit compote" maybe? That seems too fresh and lively, though... this was more subdued and blended. /shrug)

Glenn,

Not all descriptors of a wine are going to sound positive, even if they are meant to describe a wine that an individual enjoys. For example, I have seen "vegatative" and "green notes" used, yet they did not necessarily represent negative impressions. Charred, roasted, tar, skunky ... do not have to be negatives either ... just as examples. Stewed falls into that category too, whereas it normally we give one the impression of cooked, as if someone mentioned stewed tomatoes; stewed prunes on the other hand is something I find common in Amarone and especially Recioto-style (dessert) Amarone from the Veneto. So don't doubt yourself!