TN: 1959 Biebelsheimer Kieselberg Riesling Auslese

[Ray Barnes]

This bottle was uncorked about 5pm Saturday but I wanted to give this at least 24 hours before commenting on it. It is the oldest bottle I have ever tasted of anything.

This wine is sourced from the Rheinhessen, just across the border from the Nahe. It is a pale yellow color and has been properly stored. It still has some flower and apricot tones typical of botrytised Rieslings. The flavour is quite dry and almost a bit astringent, but still shows good length. It comes from the estate of Weinbau Johann Gloeckner (could not fit the whole name in the subject header). This to be the best of my knowledge is not a very prestigious wine maker and I fear this wine hit its peak many years ago and has been in decline for awhile. I acquired it about 18 months ago so am not overly dissapointed for having overcellared it, and it was about $40 US a botttle at the time. In November 2007 I was fortunate to taste a 1971 Wiltinger Rosenberg, adjacent to the Scharzhofberg, which was showing much more fruit and freshness. Since 1959 was one of the very best vintages of the 20th century in Germany, and the majority of reports I have received show the Auslesen still drinking very well today, I believe this minor letdown is a result of the producer. I've had much worse though. I plan to finish this off tomorrow and will not hold the other bottle in the garage much longer. It remains a positive experience drinking a wine in its 50th year - but I don't intend to buy any more of it.

Ray

[Eric Ifune]

I'm surprised you uncorked so soon. I usually don't give my botytisized wines that much air, especially the older ones. I've a few 1959 Germans and others I'm planning on opening this next year (I'll be 50 in July). The ones I've already tried seem to do best with a pop and pour at cellar temperature.

[Ray Barnes]

Hi Eric I'm sorry about the ambiguity in my earlier post. For the record I did taste the wine shortly after uncorking and the only difference 24 hours later was that the bouquet was a bit better developed. After being on a Madeira euphoria kick I didn't want to burst the editorial bubble by writing something less than enthusiastic elsewhere straight away.

If you think this wine may still be evolving, I hope you are right, but would be very pleasantly surprised.

Ray