TN: 2007 Kutch Pinot Noirs

[Roy Hersh]

I have been waiting for this vintage for some time. Jamie long ago started talking about the 2007s he produced. We talked at length about what was different and he told me that although he received a nice score from the WS for the 2005 Pinot, which he was really proud of -- his 2007s were made in the style of No. CA Pinot that he likes to personally drink (when not slurping down some big name Burgs).

Although I found the Kutch 2005 and 2006 Pinots enjoyable, they were not my style of what I like to drink, as they were too much like the “rest of the gang” with explosive, confected noses and fruit so brash that it could have passed for Syrah. This is not an attack on his first two efforts. They were noble and a learning experience, giving Jamie the ability to hone his craft, find his own path and unearth his own grape sources as well.

My wife and I invited our friends Ed and Joan Murray over to share the 2007 Kutch Kanzler Vineyard and McDougall Ranch PN bottlings. They stayed for a couple of hours and we slowly sipped a few glasses of each. After our guests left and my wife went to bed, I decided to go back and take some more detailed notes, now that the wines had plenty of time to open up.

Here are my impressions:

2007 Kutch, Kanzler Vineyard, Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast – Early on, I was outvoted 3-1 as the others initially chose the Kanzler as their favorite, while I preferred the McDougall style from the get go. The Kanzler exhibited an expressive profile of rhubarb, spicy red licorice, leather and an undertone of strawberry. In the early goings this showed nicely and I was very pleased there was no overtly sweet, cherry cola essence, whatsoever.

The Kanzler was immediately approachable and its significant strength in the first hour or so was that it was so smooth and soft in the mouth, round and of medium weight. There was a touch of heat that I noticed but it was not too distracting.

I came back to this a short while later and over the subsequent two hours, I noted some significant changes. The extra air time allowed this to become considerably richer in body and the alcohol had now fully integrated as well. Whereas the fruit tended more towards bright dark cherry earlier, there was more of a pomegranate flavor and a drier more elegant entry. The mid-palate was nicely packed and showed more complexity than I would expect from such a youngster and ample acidity too. The tannins were present the whole time but they were round and melded nicely, to allow for a very smooth and lingering finish. At the end of the evening of tasting, I was won over by the Kanzler, and as I have no memory of trying other examples of PN from here, I have no agenda and little knowledge about the vineyard itself.

I think it should be noted, that a key for the Kanzler to show its best now, this needs significant air time. Whether you choose to decant it, is up to you. Audoze it if you like, let it open in the glass. Whatever. But the metamorphosis this experienced between 7:30 and midnight was pretty extreme. I believe this will show even better for those that have the patience to cellar Kutch’s Kanzler for a year or two, although in all honesty, I see no reason given the solid structural components, why this won’t be great circa 2012-2014. 92-94+ points


2007 Kutch, McDougall Ranch, Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast – As soon as it was poured, I was blown away by the vibrancy of the nose. Almost too perfumed and it was like walking into a flower shop. I found it more “California-like” than the Kanzler before it really had the time to blossom, and I don’t say that with any pre-conceived or negative connotation. It was the palate that won me over early on, as it showed more "freshness." But like the Kanzler, this really transformed into a different wine over several more hours of sitting open. The nose started to show intricate scents of minerality, red currants, pencil shavings and a sexy spiciness in the background which I really enjoyed.

The Kanzler gained heft as it opened up, while juxtaposed, the McDougall seemed to gain a lightness of being, a Pinot about finesse more than power. I realize this is a contrarian view to what nearly everyone else has written, as they see this as the bigger, bolder wine compared to the Kanzler. Not me.

IMHO, this is the lithe temptress, a young and coy Audrey Hepburn. There is an earthy quality and a darker side to the fruit with a slightly tart red currant and riper boysenberry flavors, yet focused acidity and tannins that are more prominent than the Kanzler, but delivered in a lighter frame. It was fun to distinguish the evolution and improvement several hours later, and I’d suggest plenty of air time for those looking to open one of their bottles of McDougall anytime soon. I will try to leave the rest of mine in the cellar for several years, when the ’07 McDougall will be a show stopper. 92-94+ points


Although so different, if I had to choose just one to drink now, it would certainly be the Kanzler … with four hours sitting open.

I can only imagine how good these both will drink with Copper River or preferably, Yukon River King Salmon in a few months.

With Kutch Pinots at this level in just his third vintage, although this his truly first solo flight ... I can't wait to see what's coming next!