For The Love Of Port

2007 VINTAGE PORTS - Beltramo's in Menlo Park, California (1/23/2010)


This was a great lineup of Port from top producers, and Beltramo's offered the complete flight for a very reasonable $30. This was the second time I've tasted through many of the '07s, and I'm finding them ripe, very tasty, but also lacking in the tannins and structure of some of the great recent years, like 2000 and '94. We were speculating at the tasting that many Port producers may intentionally be going for a more approachable style these days, and backing off on the tannins. I'm sure I will learn more about that when I visit the Douro with Roy Hersh on his "Fortification Tour" later this year.

The Fonseca was definitely in a class of its own, with immense power and structure that some others were lacking, but the Quinta do Noval, Graham and Taylor also showed very well.

Gary Chevsky and Richard

2007 Ports

• 2007 Smith Woodhouse Porto Vintage - Portugal, Douro, Porto
  Opaque very dark red violet color; nice berry, blackberry, plum, oak nose with a sense of pepper; tasty, ripe berry, herbes de Provence, blackberry palate; medium-plus finish (92 pts.)
• 2007 Warre Porto Vintage - Portugal, Douro, Porto
  Opaque, very dark red violet color; black fruit, chocolate, berry nose; tight, rich, deep berry, blackberry, plum palate; long finish 92+ pts. (92 pts.)
• 2007 Croft Porto Vintage - Portugal, Douro, Porto
  Very dark red violet color; dark chocolate, oak, black fruit nose; dark chocolate, black fruit, tar, blackberry, vanilla palate, lacking tannins and structure; medium-plus finish (91 pts.)
• 2007 Quinta do Vesuvio Porto Vintage - Portugal, Douro, Porto
  Opaque very dark red violet color; black raspberry, black cherry, garrigue nose; tasty, complex, herbes de Provence, black fruit, plum palate; long finish (93 pts.)
• 2007 Quinta do Noval Porto Vintage - Portugal, Douro, Porto
  Opaque, very dark red violet color; graphite, licorice, black fruit, plum nose; tasty, juicy, ripe black fruit, licorice, dark chocolate, blackberry palate, with depth and polish; long finish (95 pts.)
• 2007 Graham Porto Vintage - Portugal, Douro, Porto
  Opaque, very dark red violet color; pepper, herbal, graphite, black fruit, chocolate, oak nose; deep and juicy berry, blackberry, plum, mulberry palate; long finish (94 pts.)
• 2007 Fonseca Porto Vintage - Portugal, Douro, Porto
  Opaque, very dark red violet color; rich, complex, berry, blackberry, faintly herbal, black fruit, tar nose; rich, powerful but poised, berry, black fruit, blackberry, vanilla, black cherry palate; long finish (97 pts.)
• 2007 Taylor (Fladgate) Porto Vintage - Portugal, Douro, Porto
  Very dark red violet color; black cherry, black raspberry, berry nose; rich, poised, berry, black cherry, black raspberry palate; long finish 94+ pts. (94 pts.)

Alan and Willem

Posted from CellarTracker

Richard,
Thanks for the TN's on these young'ns and you got to try some really good ones.

As to your question raised about lack of tannins...Young vintage ports often need time to really open up and for those tannins to really become prominent. Generally by day two and three you really start seeing the Port for what it is and will be. Sometimes what seems a bit simple or lacking comes around and surprises you. That can, and often is, the only pit fall when tasting very young VP's in a "snap shot" tasting right after being opened. This also is a vintage that had cooler weather overall so the massive jammy fruit isn't there like 2003. But the acidity and balance in this vintage is very high and I have no doubt the top ones will probably outlive most of us. Never the less, as you found out there are some very good Ports in this recent declared vintage.

I hope to be able to finally meet you if I can make the trip, I know my brother has mentioned you a few times to me. Let me know the next time you make it down to L.A. and I'll open something a bit older for you .

+1 on the thanks. This was a nice perspective. Herbes de Provence is an interesting descriptor. When I think of herbes de Provence I think most of the lavander and thyme, but the mix does have a distinct aroma. I can smell it now

Richard,

Great impressions on the 2007s.

You may get to try a few other '07s on our Tour, but I promise you, the vast majority of the Ports and Madeiras on this particular "5th Anniversary" Fortification Tour are going to be ancient by comparison. There's a reason I touted this as "The best of the best."

I have long admired your photography, from a number of our Madeira tastings over the years. The clarity in your bottle shots is always remarkable.

Just over 3 more months until Portugal ... I can not wait! See you soon.

P.S. Take Andy up on his offer next time you are down that way!

I'm just jealous I can't make the Fortification Tour this year.

Andy and Roy,
Thanks for the additional info on '07. Andy, I've been dying to meet you since I first heard about you from Tony and Traci about 4 years ago now. I'd definitely like to sample some Port with you on a trip to L.A. I'm going to be down there toward the end of February for a weekend, so maybe we can meet up then, if you're in town. I'll send you the details.

Eric,
I'm glad you found that descriptor evocative. The combo that is herbes de Provence was quite distinct on that Smith Woodhouse, I thought.

Richard,
Enjoy Madiera! I went on last year's Fortification tour and it was a blast!
-Dave-

Thanks Dave. I'm glad you got to go last year. I've been dying to go for years. I'm a Madeira freak, and can't wait to see it in person. And Roy has lined up a fabulous itinerary, of course.

Richard,
Please do let me know when you come down and we'll see if we can get together and share some vino.