Brief impressions on some ’03 VPs

[Steven Kooij]

Yesterday was the annual Portuguese Wine Fair in The Netherlands, hosted by ICEP. As RonnieRoots and myself participated at this fair, we (unfortunately!) did not have that much time to taste the great line-up of wines and Ports available, but we did try some of the 2003 Vintage Ports – my first taste of the Vintage from bottle. Not TNs, just some impressions:

The Niepoort was just as good as the barrel samples I tried earlier this year, it’s dark, big, classy and PACKED with flavour. One minor gripe: I do NOT like the “new” label.
Both the Portal and Portal + were very, very impressive – I can see why so many critics raved about these wines. Beautiful! I preferred the regular VP to the “+”-bottling; the last one having too sharp an acidity for my taste. Also tried the 2000 – It paled in comparison to the ‘03s. Got to find me some…
The Qta. d. Vale D. Maria and Qta. Vale Meão were very close in quality, but somewhat different in style – the Vale D. Maria being somewhat smoother / lighter than the more robust Vale Meão. I liked the Vale Meão just a bit more, but that’s just my taste. Both would be more than welcome in my cellar!
Barão de Vilar was a nice, light VP with plenty of upfront red fruit. A bit lacking in structure, but a nice VP for the short term.
Finally, the Burmester – I have no idea what went wrong here, but this was feeble: too watery, light and with no nose. Many a cheap Ruby is better than this. It might have been a bottle that had been open for too long (I forgot to ask), but based on this tasting I cannot find anything to recommend it.

[alec]

ICEP has an office here in NYC as well. I hadn't heard of any kind of Port tastings or fairs or whatnot.... Is this done everywhere or only is specific places?

Man, between this tasting you mentioned and the UK outing I'm feeling left out here on the east coast!

--A

[Frederick Blais]

Alec, I know the IDVP organized one each year in Toronto and Montreal on the east coast. I could not attend to the one in Montreal this year, but some friends told me that it was very interesting. Many of the products available on the shelves here where there + some 2003 VP from the Symingtons, Noval and Fonseca to name a few.

Look on the IDVP web site http://www.ivp.pt normally there is a schedule for these events.

http://www.ivp.pt/eventos.asp

[Ronald Wortel]

It was nice to get the chance to (re)taste some of the 2003 VP's.

For me, the winner of this bunch was the Niepoort, which really seems to have come together in comparison to the already spectacular, but mouthbreaking tannic barrel sample tasted last march. Very impressive indeed.

The Portals were quite a surprise. Until now I wasn't too fond of this house; the quality didn't seem to live up to the ambitions. The 2003's, however, are impressive. The regular bottling seemed somewhat better balanced than the "+" bottling.

I think I liked the Vale D. Maria a bit better than Stevie. I always love the seductive fruit in these ports. Never the biggest structure, but always lovely. Vale Meao is big and massive. A beauty.

Barao de Vilar was pleasant and nice for the short term.

It seems that something is defenitely going wrong at Burmester. Their 2000 VP was already far below par and the 2003 is probably even worse. Burmester is heading in the wrong direction - fast. Hopefully the new owners will make some changes for the better.

[Roy Hersh]

Well, it is good to see that we agree on the 2003s, especially the Niepoort and also the Quinta do Portal(s). I just read the Wine Advocate review by Rovani and the above 2003s were all panned and were in an area not even worthy of TNs, as he gave all of these 80-84 points. He certainly is entitled to his opinion and you have seen my review as will, I am sure.

Anyway, the ICEP office in NYC is more of a travel and promotional office and adjunct to the IVDP. My biz partner Mario Ferreira, was the "Ambassador for Port" to No. America. He was the one that used to organize the IVDP tastings in Canada and here in the USA. They have yet to be able to replace him. It might take 2 or 3 ppl. for them to do so. Don't hold your breath.

[alec]

Ooooh, think I should apply? That can't be a bad job... I mean every job has it's ups and downs, but at least I'm interested in Port.....

The people at ICEP in NYC seemed very nice and promptly answered some questions I had and sent me a myriad of information within days.

Mario, were you there when Vyne Communications did the web site for them in 1996?

--A

[Mario Ferreira]

[...] Anyway, the ICEP office in NYC is more of a travel and promotional office and adjunct to the IVDP. My biz partner Mario Ferreira, was the "Ambassador for Port" to No. America. He was the one that used to organize the IVDP tastings in Canada and here in the USA. They have yet to be able to replace him. [...}

Well, actually the ICEP office in New York is the one that is more oriented to assist the promotion of Portuguese Products in the USA. That includes wines. And the ICEP office is San Francisco is the one that only focus on the promotion of Portugal as Tourist destination.

Please also note that, on the best of my knowledge, unfortunately IVDP has no plans to have another employee working based in a country other than Portugal. Not because I did a bad job while the States :) but because that is not IVDP's policy. Actually, when I was sent to NYC, the plan was to stay 6 months only. But that period of time kept being extended until almost 5 full years :!: . So, regarding this issue, I may say I was the very first and only Port Institute's employee that has worked outside Portugal. :) (Of course I'm proud of that and want to thank IVDP's Board of Directors for the opportunity I was given).

Concerning the Canadian Market, while in NYC my job was more assisting the local PR agency than organizing the events themselves. I
mean, I did some coordination for Canada, but for the organization of those Tastings I was not involved as I was for the USA Port Tastings. (I'm writing these words because I do not want my former colleagues to feel upset thinking I'm pretending to get the credit of those past successful tastings) :)

[...] Mario, were you there when Vyne Communications did the web site for them in 1996? --A

Alec - I started working for the Port Wine Institute in 2000 and arrived in NYC in September of that year. I must confess I'm not aware about most of the specifics of what has been done before that particular year.
Also, you say you are in contact with ICEP-NY. So, I'm sure you are familiar with Mr Alberto Almeida [alberto.almeida@iapmei.icep.pt] who is the product manager responsible for Portuguese Wines, including Port & Madeira. That's great. Alberto is good pal and a good friend too. Best. /mario.

[Steven Kooij]

Roy, did you try the Burmester '03?

[Roy Hersh]

No, Burmester was going through some transition with their US agents. Even contacting them in Portugal for samples did not help. So it remains one of the few '03s (47 initially and a handful of other houses on our recent Portugal sojourn) that I have not had as of yet.

[Ronald Wortel]

It would indeed be interesting to see what you think of the Burmester Roy. Come to speak of it, I don't think I saw a single rating of that one yet.

[Jay Woodruff]

I STILL haven't seen the Portal for sale anywhere in the US. And the Niepoort at only a few.


As for the Niepoort label, I too was surprised. The name looks like something from a sci-fi movie of the early 80's.

[alec]

There's only one importer of Niepoort into the US....and they have an exclusive deal to do that. (Note the similar prices just about everywhere...)

I don't think anyone is importing Portal. Best advice is to pick an importer and have a bunch of us write in and ask for it. They're not stupid; if they see demand they'll be more than happy to supply.

--A