For The Love Of Port

I got the latest issue of Tanzer's International Wine Cellar a couple days ago and was happy to see an article on 2003 vintage ports. It starts off with stating that 2003 will be an outstanding vintage but will take many years to see how it ranks compared to relatively recent classic vintages. Then moves on to discuss the overall vintage and weather characteristics. Then moves on to the tasting notes and scores. Curiously, near the end of the article, Tanzer says, "While the ferociously tannic ports of a generation or two ago may no longer be made, the 2003 vintage does not lack for tannic structure."

Over in this thread: http://www.fortheloveofport.com/forum/v ... .php?t=573 There is some discussion about how the style has been changing to make more approachable wines when they are young but Roy clearly states that is not the case.

I'm not old enough to have tasted vintages such as '63, '70, '77 when they were released so I can't say who is right or wrong. I'm wondering where this impression that vintage port is being made in a softer style is coming from?

The issue seems to me to be whether you think they've deliverately changed the style or not.

As given the changes in winemaking/viticulture, they have surely changed (based on that fact that so much has changed in wine making, I can't believe the resulting ports haven't changed as well, even though I don't know what a 1948 tasted like on release!). I don't take that as a view they've made them to be more drinkable younger - it just so happens as winemakings moved on, they actually are.

I firmly believe the ports will actually not only last as long, but actually last longer overall. It's just the drinking windows are going to be incredably wide - no bad thing! For me, you drink your port when you you think the stuff tasty, and increasingly I suspect for recent vintages, that often includes when it's very young - end of story!

Nick,

I certainly agree that with the changes that have taken place in the Douro since the 60s and 70s that the Vintage ports have changed, and for the better (less aggressive tannins?). Listening to the Port shippers in London, they are serious about the quality of their vintages and have always strived to do better than their fathers.

In the olden days a much larger quantity of the wines came from farmers, after the 70s many of the Port companies started to purchase more vineyards and have as a result I think tightened the control over the quality of the Vintage ports we drink. If I was a betting man, the dependable houses will produce long living Vintages. :)