For The Love Of Port

I recently tasted the Taylor 1994 and while I can appreciate what it is, it had too much tannin and acid for me to want to open another bottle soon. There are certainly other bottles I would now enjoy more. But I was wondering about the Taylor 1995 Quinta de Vargellas. How does this compare? Is it big and upfront like other Taylors, and the 1994 in particular, or is it more approachable or subdued? I read numerous tasting notes in the TN section and nothing deterred me. In fact, some made me want to try it. But none of them game me an impression of how it compared to other Taylors.

I'm asking because I'll be having dinner soon at a restaurant that has a wine list with more than 40 Ports (mostly VPs, some SQVPs, a few Colheitas, and one LBV if memory serves), and I was trying to pick one out ahead of time so it could be decanted earlier in the day. I ruled out five to ten things from their list as I've had them before and they aren't my favorites, and a number of bottles on price (both absolute and relative to market prices), but that still leaves a lot of choices. At the moment I'm drawn to the Taylor 1995, but also giving some consideration to a 1963 Burmester Colheita. I know those are like apples and oranges, and I'm not asking you to compare those two! (But if you know how that 1963 compares to the 1955, tell me )

-Eric

ALthough still a young port, I found the Vargellas remarkably approachable the last time I tried it. Up until a year or two ago it had the typical Taylor hardness, but now it is clearly entering its drinking window. It is not as long lived and big as the 1985, but a very fine port, and I think you'll enjoy it a lot if you like a bit of youthful bite in your port and if you give it enough time in the decanter.

p.s. What would be your recommended decant time?

I have had this one at least 3-4 times and I think it is fantastic value for money (paid about 40$ for them). Great grapey port, very enjoyable now and I think it will last another 20 years easily. If you can have it at a decent price, I highly recommend it.

Never had the 94, it is above my pain threshold for $$$.

Steve

Eric Menchen wrote:p.s. What would be your recommended decant time?

I think that if you ask them to decant it around noon, it will be perfect for the evening.

I got the 1995 Q de Vargellaas for less than $30 a bottle all in at auction about 18 months ago and that was a steal. It is a lot better that the 1983 Taylor VP that cost twice as much.

Eric,

The 1963 Burmester Colheita is ABSOLUTELY as good as the 1955 and was the first Burmester ever to knock my socks off. I've only had it a few times, but it is definitely in my top 10 of all Colheitas produced in the past 50 years (I choose that date to include the 1959 Niepoort). IF the price is right ... I'd go with this over the chance to drink a 1995 Quinta de Vargellas.

That said, there is no comparison between the Vargellas and the 1994 Taylor. The latter VP might not be in a proper drinking window today, but I don't know too many better made Vintage Ports ... and I am talking about EVER. Of all 100 point scores that Suckling has ever annointed on Vintage Ports ... this is one of only two, that I have ever agreed with. I love the Fonseca 1994 too, but in my honest opinion the Taylor is the 2nd greatest wine of the vintage and the only Port to best it in that vintage, is the OTHER 100 Point wine that I do agree with, Nacional. Both are monumental Ports that will drink well when our children are grand parents! So the fact that the enormous 1994 Taylor ... even with a solid decant ... but not long enough, was put into the lineup at our tasting, to show folks what a backwards monster VP is like when young. Not necessarily pleasant, but should you ever choose to open another in the upcoming 2-3 years ... decant it for a full day to get the best out of it!

To answer your direct question though: In comparison to the 1995 Vargellas and I see no menton of the Vinha Velha that was also produced by Vargellas in 1995, so I take it we are discussing the regular and far more affordable bottling: It is still a young pup, very tasty and can be enjoyed with an 8-10 hour decant time. It is going to be a primary and in-your-face type of Port too ... but enjoyable and certainly far more approachable than what you encountered with the 1994 Taylor VP.

Just my