2003 Fonseca Vintage Port

[Lamont Huxley]

Decanted through cheesecloth into a decanter and then back into the rinsed bottle and recorked. Consumed over a three day stretch.

1-3hrs
Opaque, blackish maroon at the core, though not inky, with red and purple highlights on the rim. The nose is very expressive - I was enjoying it thoroughly even as I was decanting the wine - it's rich, warm, and dominated by molasses and black dates with a supporting cast of truffles, espresso, tar, black raspberry/blueberry fruit, and a fresh mintiness. Big earthy/bitter flavors on the entry: coffee, bitters, grapeskin, with dark fruit that seems to be hidden underneath - seems off-dry, not sweet at all - brawny heat on the mid-palate with a long and layered finish. Seems very earthy so far, somewhat backwards with the fruit hiding behind the big structure... definitely needs some time to calm down, but delicious nonetheless with an amazing nose. 95+ for now.

14+hrs
Color is about the same at this point but the brooding fruit on the nose has blossomed into a beautiful perfume of blueberry, fig and raspberry - really jumping out of the glass. Along with the fruit there was still the darker flavors that were originally apparent, molasses, date, raisin and tar, as well as a big note of vanilla. On the palate the fruit has come to life as well, now presenting a mass of mouth-filling black cherry pie-like sweet fruit that gives way to a smooth peppery heat through the midpalate with the big tannins only barely showing through. The finish is long leaving lingering notes of grapeskin, bitters and vanilla extract. The fruit still isn't quite carrying through as the heat and big acidity seem to cover it up towards the finish, but this is wonderful. It really turned a corner after sitting overnight. 97

24+hrs
Nose has closed up somewhat. It still retains the same dark, earthy fruit profile, but it's not singing like it was ten hours ago. On the palate the earthy elements seem to be more prominent again, though the dark fruit is still there too, and the warm heat across the midpalate hasn't dissipated. The finish continues to echo with decidedly savory flavors of grapeskin and bitters and a bit of dry dark fruit. 95/96

36+hrs
Still a bit closed but seems to be opening back up again. The fruit is a bit longer and denser now but with the earthy flavors still dominating. The heat has mellowed some and begun to integrate, and the finish has also gained length. 96

60+hrs
The color now seems to be a little darker and more purple than it started out. The berry perfume on the nose has come back around with a fresher, more mineral quality to it, along with dates and fig jam - awesome. The palate has gained more weight still and the fruit flavors are now really fresh and focused, lasting further through the midpalate than previously, leaving the finish more fruity and less stemmy than it had been. I wish I had more left to sample over a longer period as this port just keeps continuing to change, but alas. 96/97

Though I really enjoyed the experience of drinking it now, this strikes me as a port that's going to need lots of time to get all its components smoothed out, but once it does it should be beautiful. One for the long haul I'd say. For now I score it a 96+ points but would bank on it only showing better in the long run.

[Roy Hersh]

The Fonseca 2003 in my opinion is right up there at the apex of the vintage, with very few peers ... maybe just 2.

[David Spriggs]

Lamont,
Thanks for the super note! Love the detail and the time you've taken with this Port. I have a few of these.... but don't want to open them. This is in my top 3 for the vintage... If pushed Id say that the Fonseca is #2 - Noval is #1 and Neipoort and Vesuvio are tied for #3.
-Dave-

[Lamont Huxley]

I've only had a chance to sample a handful of the 03's, but so far I'm really impressed. As awesome as the Fonseca is, the Vesuvio just left my jaw on the floor. It still ranks as my favorite VP tasted to date.

[David Spriggs]

It still ranks as my favorite VP tasted to date.

I can totally see that. Before release the Vesuvio was a favorite of mine and rated equal to the Fonseca. Since then, I've had both the jaw dropping bottles and the head scratching ones. So I have downgraded it in my mind due to the varience in tasting notes since it's release. It still may be that jaw dropping wine - It's early days yet. In my mind it might be an equal to the great 1994 Vesuvio. We shall see over the next few years as things get sorted out.

[Roy Hersh]

i agree that the 2003 Vesuvio is on a par with the 1994, however the 1994 delivers greater pleasure as the extra 9 years helps signficantly. The 2003 is a beauty though.

David, I don't know if you have any 2003 Niepoort's but you need to revisit this VP, it is killer today and was an amazing cask sample of epic proportions at the time.